The overnight music pumping throughout the city had stopped by the time I was up and about in the morning and so it was another quiet and pleasant morning in Mostar. I was able to wander the empty streets, taking a few photos, while waiting for the nearby breakfast cafe/restaurant to open.
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
After a simple, relaxed and pleasant breakfast I was back at Cardak Pension packing my gear and readying myself for the return to Croatia. I had booked a place in Split so at least I knew I had a destination and a bed for the night.
Time to leave Cardak Pension, Mostar.
Time to leave Cardak Pension, Mostar.
It was one of my earlier departure times since I had a decent distance to go to make Split and I was looking forward to a swim at some waterfalls or in the Mediterranean along the way. I was soon heading up the steep and narrow cobbled footpaths out of Mostar and on my way towards Croatia.
I had heard about Kravice Waterfalls and set them as a late morning stop-off for a swim along the way. The ride towards Kravice Waterfalls was rather hot and I was certainly looking forward to a swim. Along the way I spotted a roadside tyre dealer and workshop and since I had not had much luck at BMW Mostar I pooped in to see if they could help. Although much friendlier and interested they didn't have the tyres I was looking for and advised that since I was on my way to Split I should be able to find a new tyre there.
Although the GPS was incredibly useful it was struggling with directing me to Kravice Waterfalls. After a few directions (mainly pointing and gesturing) from a man at a nearby petrol station I was on the right track.
I parked the motorbike beside the road as close as possible to the refreshing water in the shade.
I left some gear locked with the bike and walked down to the grassed area near pools and got (mostly) naked before slipping into some swimmers and heading for the water. The water was wonderfully refreshing (not too cold) and remarkably clear and fresh. It was great for a swim and is very popular.
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Despite the hassle of getting out of, and back into, a full motorcycle riding suit the break and swim at Kravice Waterfalls was a great break along the way. I was soon fully dressed and sweating my way towards Croatia and the Mediterranean coastline.
After another queue jumping border crossing I was back into Croatia and being reacquainted with the wonderful scenery.
Bacina Lakes
Once riding along, or above, the Croatian coastline I was looking for an inviting seaside location to stop for lunch. After putting off the lunch stop for long enough I turned off the highway down to Gradac. As I approached the water's edge I wondered what I had stumbled upon. At first all I could see were several vintage BMW motorcycles, many with sidecars parked up and on display.
As I parked behind a much more recent BMW R100GS PD and locked my jacket and helmet to my bike I was approached by the owner of the R100GS PD (Stipe) who was quite happy to invite me to join him and the group. Stipe was from the Split BMW Motor Club and was involved in arrangements for the classic cars and bikes that were on show.
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes (and mine)
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes
I joined Stipe for some pizza and a relax overlooking the water while the bikes and cars were on show. Stipe had helped make arrangements for the cars and bikes to pass through a few seaside towns back to Split throughout the day. His father who had both classic cars and bikes had a car in the procession.
After lunch I helped Stipe and a couple of others lead the route ahead for the cars and bikes and stop the traffic on the highway to allow the procession to proceed as one. After the last of the cars and bikes had gone past I headed off to follow from the back of the pack.
A short distance down the road an old military styled bike pulled off the road with a flat tyre. I joined Stipe to see what help we could offer. Stipe had quickly accessed his tyre pump only to find the connections were missing. He asked if I had a pump…….I did (my younger brother, Bob, had given it to me for Christmas for special occasions such as this).
After removing two of my outer bags I could access the panner with the pump inside. I then had to remove a few items from the pannier before I could access the pump. I connected the pump to the battery power supply and we tried to pump up the old and completely flat tyre. After a short time it was obvious that our efforts would be futile since the tyre had completely dislodged from the wheel and there was no chance of getting a seal and/or enough pressure to get the tyre inflated. He left his bike and hopped in an old jeep to join the rest of the parade.
Stipe and I followed well behind the cars and bikes along the coast to Tucepi. Once we arrived in Tucepi we parked our bikes with a twin to Stipe's BMW R100GS PD. The twin belonged to Stipe's friend Mario.
I found while we chatted throughout the afternoon, and into the evening, that Stipe had found his rather rare BMW R100GS PD first and Mario was rather impressed by it. It took Mario a little while before he could find another one for himself. So now, two friends in Croatia have matching, rare, BMW R100GS PD's.
Mario
Stipe
After a long and relaxed afternoon it was time for me to be heading onwards with Stipe to Split. Stipe offered to show me a more exciting route than simply following the highway. Along the way we popped in to a backpackers (Hostel Casa Vecchia) that was owned and managed by an Australian who had ridden with Stipe a few times and Stipe hoped we could meet. Although the owner of the backpackers wasn't there we still stopped for a little while before continuing onwards.
Bikes lined up at Hostel Casa Vecchia
After the quick stop Stipe, Mario and I headed off until Mario left us and returned to his wife back in Tucepi. Stipe and I continued on to Split taking the scenic route. We took the mountain road behind Omis and then onwards to Split. I lost Stipe for a little while when I needed to stop check out the roadside scenery a little more closely.
Stipe rode with me all the way into Split and was sure he could take me straight to my accommodation - Villa Leticia. We were very close to the address and Stipe conceded that the narrow and one way roads were a little tricky and called my host. My host found us a short distance down the street.
I said goodbye to Stipe knowing that I would see him again before I left Split (since he was chasing a replacement tyre for me through one of his contacts).
It had been a great day and it was fabulous to meet friendly and generous locals who were so willing introduce me their friends, to show me better routes and help out in any way they could. In fact, if I hadn't pre-booked accommodation I was offered the Split BMW Club clubhouse for as long as I wanted.
Thanks Stipe and Mario.