I was happy to check out of Hotel Novi as late as possible since I didn't have a definite plan for the day and I was happy to see what might happen with several options in front of me. The border crossing into Croatia was only about 5km up the road and Dubrovnik, where I had a vague idea of having lunch and stumbling upon some wonderful accommodation, was around 70km away. The other option was Bosnia and Herzegovina which is easily accessed a little further north after Dubrovnik.
It was already rather warm (37.5deg.C) by the time I made it to the rather long queue at the Montenegro-Croatia border crossing.
Border Crossing out of Montenegro
As I am sure you can appreciate I wasn't particularly happy having to stop, and wait, as both my bike and I got hotter and hotter.
Border Crossing out of Montenegro
I decided that the air-conditioned motorists wouldn't begrudge a motorcyclist, dripping with sweat and all documents at the ready, to pass by to the front of the line…….
Border Crossing out of Montenegro
After a few cars weren't happy to allow me in I was eventually allowed into the line and was quickly through the checkpoint and into Croatia, my 5th country on the trip.
A couple of bends past the checkpoint the road turned to gravel due to lengthy roadworks. It was great to be back onto gravel and experiencing extensive roadworks since I had been missing them after Albania…….
After a distance smooth bitumen replaced the rough gravel and I was quickly approaching Dubrovnik. The initial experience of Croatia was through rural countryside with many paddocks filling the valley floor alongside the river. It wasn't long, however, before the road reached the coastline and gave some wonderful riding and spectacular views that Croatia is renowned for.
From the highway, before reaching Dubrovnik, it is possible to get a fabulous view down to the old city. I decided I would try my luck in the old part of town by stopping for lunch and looking for nearby accommodation that may be available.
Dubrovnik - Looks good from here!
It was hot and I was looking forward to stopping in Dubrovnik since I had heard how wonderful it is. As I rode into Dubrovnik the hot weather and the traffic were not creating a great first impression. Initially I tried following my nose and excellent sense of direction without success. I then tried a general direction based on the GPS map…..
I didn't make it to the beautiful old town of Dubrovnik. Instead I ended up parked beside one of the wide roads in the newer part of town. The temperature and traffic had taken their toll and I needed water and an ice cream before I made any more rash decisions or progress.
I soon found out that Croatia has its own currency and doesn't accept anything else. I extracted way too much from the ATM and ended up with a lot of change after buying 2L of water and an ice cream.
While I enjoyed my melting ice cream and ice cold bottle of water I decided I would leave Croatia now to return a little later on my trip (to spend my bundle of their Croatian Kunas). As much as I had hoped to visit Dubrovnik, I was finding the high temperatures combined with the high numbers of tourists and their traffic was reducing my ability to experience and enjoy such wonderful locations as I had hoped. I thought it would be better to save it for another day.
I had made an on the spot decision to head to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I was hopeful I could find the accommodation recommended by the friendly Finnish in Herceg Novi and that they had a vacancy.
After leaving Dubrovnik the road follows the wonderful Croatian coastline before you cross into Bosnia and Herzegovina (informally), pass through Bosnia and Herzegovina's small strip of Mediterranean coastal land (around 10km), and back into Croatia (informally again). This odd strip of land and the issues it causes between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina are the result of the Treaty of Karlowitz (1699).
Shortly after passing through a little slice of Bosnia and Herzegovina and being back into Croatia I was at the 'official' border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina.
4th Border Crossing in one day!
Once again there was a rather lengthy queue of cars and on this occasion I was graciously allowed to ride up the outside and slip into the checkpoint as soon as I had my paperwork ready for display. It was a very quick and easy crossing both out of Croatia, and into Bosnia and Herzegovina. It seems that Australians, on Abu Dhabi registered motorbikes are not what they are concerned about……..they are both more concerned about their respective neighbours.
I continued up the impressive Neretva River valley towards Mostar.
On the outskirts of Mostar I noticed a BMW Motorrad dealer. Since I was in need of a new front tyre I decided I would stop in to see if they were interested in assisting me……..In short, stopping off at the BMW dealership was rather disappointing.
None of the staff gave any indication of being even slightly interested in an Australian motorcyclist, on a fully loaded-up BMW motorcycle entering their store or enquiring about a replacement tyre. In essence I was told they didn't have a tyre, couldn't get one for at least a week, I could try another shop on the way into town or I could go to Croatia to get one.
Thanks BMW Motorrad Tomic, Mostar.
I continued on to the centre of Mostar in the hope of finding somewhere to sleep close to the old bridge and centre of the old town. As I approached the old part of town it became apparent that parking and access was rather restricted throughout the stone cobbled streets. I explained to the gentleman guiding and directing that I only wanted to stop for a brief time while I found my accommodation……he was still rather insistent on me paying for the privilege……I had a few coins of various currencies to give him…….none were local or acceptable so he wasn't too happy.
I walked the short distance into the pedestrian only streets of Mostar and found the Tourist Information staff who helped with directions to Cardak Pension. As I made my way to the pension, throughout the narrow, slippery cobbled streets, lined with shops and restaurants, and filled with tourists I wondered how I would be getting my wide and heavy bike there.
Once I had confirmed availability and accommodation at Cardak Pension the host offered to help guide me back through town on my motorbike…..I gingerly followed my host back to the pension, being careful to avoid the tourists wandering the streets, slipping on the smooth cobbles and the steep ups and downs of the centre of Mostar. At one point along the way the benches and menu boards of one of the restaurants needed to be pushed in as far as possible to allow me to squeeze past.
Once checked-in and out of the bike suit I was ready to have a look around Mostar.
Mostar
Following the unrest in Mostar during 1992-1993 (a result of Bosnia and Herzegovina declaring independence from Yugoslavia) much of the centre of the old town was devastated by the fighting. On the 9th November 1993 Stari Most, which had been standing for 427 years, was destroyed by Bosnian Croat forces. The restored bridge, constructed using the traditional techniques, reopened 23rd July 2004.
Stari Most
Stari Most
The bridge is impressive and it is a popular tourist attraction due to the local bridge divers. The view from on the bridge, down to the water below, is deceptive. It is not until you go down to the banks of the Neretva River and look up to the bridge above that you get a feeling for the significance of the height above the river. The jump from the bridge to the water varies depending upon the flow in the river and I was advised that the distance was around 25-26m at the time I was there. Despite that being 2.5x higher than a 10m diving board I couldn't help thinking about jumping off…….
Stari Most - 25+m above the water.
I spoke to one of the divers who advised that injuries are common amongst the inexperienced jumpers. Apparently a young Australian had decided to give it a go earlier in the day and had either dislocated his shoulder and/or broken his upper arm……obviously not a good result.
There are several stories regarding the injuries, death and disappearance of tourists who have jumped from the bridge. Dislocations and broken limbs are the most common. I couldn't stop thinking about jumping though.
I spoke to my pension hosts who were clearly opposed to the idea of jumping and strongly suggested not jumping. Some locals believe you are not a "local man" if haven't jumped - my host didn't believe that.
Mostar
Mostar - 13th July
I awoke to a beautiful and quiet day in Mostar. I had breakfast nearby whilst watching unpleasant waste being drained into the small stream from one of the opposite accommodations/restaurants. The streams were carrying quite a bit of garbage downstream to the main river just below the amazing Stari Most - the Old Bridge.
It seems that although Mostar relies on its attractive location and beautifully restored and maintained buildings they haven't quite caught up with the idea that fouling their attractions with garbage may upset and discourage tourists and destroy much of what they have.
Mostar streams carry too much of Mostar's waste.
Mostar buildings drain into the streams.
Most of Mostar is fairly relaxed in the morning with the streets remaining quiet until mid-morning. Around 10:30 the first of the day's local Mostar Diving Club divers takes his morning wake-up dive. Like many of the Club divers he will dive from the bridge at least once every day.
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence)
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence - sorry I missed the splash)
After the dive, which is a fairly lengthy process of psyching up and collecting cash, I headed around Mostar to see more of the town and the damage that remains after the fighting in the early 90's.
Mostar - many buildings are damaged and vacant
Mostar - other buildings are damaged and occupied
Mostar - other buildings are partly constructed and stopped
Mostar - while some buildings have had amazing restorations completed.
Franz Blazek's Gymnasium (1902 - restored 2004)
Mostar Gymnasium forecourt.
Mostar - wall art.
Mostar - still some work to be done.
I stopped for lunch at one of the many cafes/restaurants overlooking the bridge and the river which was rather pleasant (except I almost cracked a front tooth on a stone in the food).
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence)
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence - with splash)
From below the height of the bridge is more apparent.
I swam in the river below the old bridge but always made sure I was not ingesting the water and was out of the main river before I reached the outlet of the small stream (drain) from the town above. The water is quite cool and the flow in the river is rather strong. I had heard of a tourist who had foolishly jumped in when the water level was above the high-water mark you can see on the sides of the bridge due to the post winter meltwater - he was never seen again.
I enjoyed the swim and although I continued to entertain the idea in my head of jumping from the bridge I had come to the conclusion that I would not be jumping. I had been thinking about jumping since arriving in Mostar and the stories of injury were constantly nagging me. I was well aware of the impact even a small injury could have on my plans and ability to ride my motorbike for a few more months. Even a sprained ankle would have had a major impact day in day out.
Perhaps if I wasn't on my bike I would have jumped. Perhaps……
Mostar is a popular tourist attraction and once the heat of the day drops many people come out at night to enjoy food, drink and some seriously loud music.
One bar is within the caves dug out during the conflict and
can be accessed by one of the remaining tunnels
The streets were packed.
Some of the bars and locations are so popular that the streets and footpaths are impassable due to the crowds. There are a few locations with DJ's pumping out music from both sides of the river across and over the city centre. There are small bars with live music and other locations where the DJ's are hidden within the small courtyards through narrow lanes.
The music would continue well after was asleep. Tomorrow would be my second attempt at stopping in Croatia.