15th July - Split
The priority on my first morning in Split was to find some amazing coffee and wonderful pastries for breakfast (and Euro to pay for accommodation). As I wandered through the lane ways towards the Old Town I kept my eyes and nose on alert for the sight of other early morning breakfast seekers and smells of freshly extracted coffee.
Split Architecture
While I was hunting down my breakfast I got my first glimpses of Split's history and architecture along the way.
Prokurative (Republic) Square - Split
I managed to find a pleasant little bakery cafe and picked up some perfectly acceptable pastries and coffee. With my breakfast back in the rooms of Villa Leticia I settled in to work on this website. After completing a quick and ongoing update I was ready to head out into the narrow streets and open squares of Split again. The day was looking like it would be beautifully clear and rather warm….
I just needed to check my hairstyle progress on the way….
One of the major attractions of Split's Old Town is Diocletian's Palace. The many buildings that make up Diocletian Palace are arranged above a basement that elevates most of the walkways, lanes and squares above the adjoining level of the shoreline. Within the basement and underground complex are now small shops, museum wings and other sections closed to the public.
The foreshore in front of Diocletian's Palace is very popular - Split
The basement/underground complex Diocletian's Palace - Split
The basement/underground complex Diocletian's Palace - Split
The basement/underground complex makes way for a garden
Diocletian's Palace - Split
The lane-ways above the basement create a series of maze-like paths that open out into small courtyards completely overshadowed by the surrounding buildings and also much larger and open spaces providing wonderful views to other distant and taller buildings.
Tower - Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian Palace) - Split
Typical lane-way Diocletian Palace - Split
Small square (shops and residences) Diocletian Palace - Split
Cafes, bars, restaurants, seating in Diocletian Palace - Split
Temple to Jupiter (Diocletian Palace) - Split
Pjaca (People's Square - Nardoni Trg) - Split
Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian Palace) - Split
Tower - Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian Palace) - Split
After exploring the lane-ways, alleys, courtyards and squares of Diocletian's Palace it was time to sit down, relax and enjoy a tasty lunch while watching others pass me by. I had seen a few possibilities outside the walls of Diocletian's Palace and returned to Pjaca (People's Square - Nardoni Trg).
Out of the several options around the square I chose No Stress Bar/Bistro. I thought that sounded like the way to go and they offered FREE WiFi too.
I sat down, waited a while for the opportunity to order and eventually asked for some ravioli…..mmmmmmm, mmmm. I also waited for the WiFi access code………apparently it comes with your receipt? after you pay? I was lucky enough to persuade the staff to give me one that seemed to be from someone's earlier receipt.
While I waited form my ravioli I watched a newly wed couple come into the square for some photos (I was a little slow to get the camera going so I only caught them leaving).
A wedding photo in the square - Split
Goodbye - a wedding photo in the square - Split
I sat outside, under the shade of an umbrella, in 37deg.C+ waiting for my ravioli to be delivered for over 1.5hours. Once it came it was poorly made and poorly cooked. I asked if another attempt could be made to get it right……the staff gave the impression that there was nothing wrong with it…..they tried again, and again I sat and waited…….after another lengthy wait (now almost 2hrs sitting there) another plate of dreadful ravioli appeared.
The kitchen was 0 for 2 and my plate returned again with the staff acknowledging it was a poor effort with rather unsatisfactory excuses offered. A mother and daughter nearby were also having a rather unsatisfactory lunch but seemed much luckier and received their replacement meal much quicker than I. Having no luck with two plates of ravioli I decided to try the simple avocado, tomato and mozzarella salad. Surely they could manage to cook that correctly…..
Perhaps one of the simplest salads in existence arrived with flavourless and rock hard avocado. After a couple of mouthfuls it was time to complain again. Although I was offered free drinks and another attempt at food I declined and it was agreed I would not pay for the pleasure of sitting for over 2hrs in the heat of the Mediterranean sun, and I certainly didn't want to sit there any longer.
Perhaps "No Stress" refers to the approach of the staff and management…..and based on the 215 "Likes" on facebook it seems not too many people are too fussed about them either.
Quiet day in Split - hot weather, holiday season and weekend.
Quiet day in Split - hot weather, holiday season and weekend.
There were hardly any people walking the streets in the early afternoon. I imagine many people were enjoying an afternoon nap (after they had a relaxed, tasty and satisfying lunch), keeping out of the sun and the heat or relaxing with a swim somewhere along the Dalmatian Coast.
Split Street Art
In the early evening, after some of the sting had gone from the sun, I headed for one of the nearby Split swimming spots. I now knew where many people had been for hours throughout the afternoon. There were many groups of people along the water's edge, in the sun or the shade, on the grass, gravel or rocks, swimming or drying off.
Busy day by the water Split - holiday season and weekend.
The water was wonderful. A relaxing and refreshing temperature and amazingly clear and filled with marine life. I swam for quite some time chasing the fish and enjoying the fading sunlight.
Busy night in Split - holiday season and weekend.
I returned to Diocletian's Palace in the hope that I would have a much better experience with dinner than I had with lunch. Rather than a 'trendy' bar/bistro I looked for a more reasonable, honest and local establishment. I found a small restaurant (Zalogajnic Dioclecijan) with outdoor seating against the wall of the old palace and decided to try the local sausage, salad and beer…..it was certainly better than lunch although nothing spectacular.
It was time for bed.
16th July - Split to Plitvice
I had made arrangements to meet Stipe (BMW Moto Klub - Split) to take me to a friend of his for a new front tyre so it was a reasonably early morning packing up and leaving Villa Leticia.
Villa Leticia
After packing and loading the bike I met Stipe and followed him to the place for my new front tyre. While the tyre was being fitted, Miro, a friend of Stipe's arrived to join us for the morning and the ride out of town when I was to depart.
New Front Tyre
After the new front tyre was fitted and paid for it was time for some breakfast. Stipe asked what I wanted and I innocently suggested something like "bacon and eggs". Stipe asked if I would wanted something more local and I said "yes" (of course - why else would you travel somewhere and meet someone if not to enjoy their place and their ways).
Stipe and Miro talked for a little while to recall nearby locations for where we could go for a more local and traditional breakfast. We had tripe! with wine!? for breakfast (although by that time it was getting closer to lunch).
Stipe and Miro took me for breakfast - bowl of tripe with white wine.
I am pretty sure it is the first time I have knowingly had tripe (I may have had some in China without anyone telling me). To be fair the tripe wasn't particularly enjoyable mainly due to the texture and chewing required, the flavour of the stew sauce was really quit good and the vegetables were very tasty. Thankfully the wine was well diluted and a single glass was quite enough before lunch.
Miro (R80GS)
After breakfast Stipe and Miro showed me the way out of Split.
Stipe, Miro and I stopped on the way out of Split for a coffee (although to be honest I was a little wary that more wine may have been about to be ordered). We chatted some more over the coffee then it was time for me to leave them to get back to Split while I rode on to Plitvice.
Saying goodbye to Miro
Saying goodbye to Stipe
After farewelling Stipe and Miro I was on my way towards Plitvice. The countryside and roads were wonderful and it was great to be out int eh countryside of Croatia. For the first time in a long time the weather on the road was pleasantly cool at around 20deg.C. It was great to be riding with the jacket zipped-up again and feeling comfortable with the temperature.
Bushfires in Croatia
On the way to Plitvice
Although the weather was cool that day I imagine it had been very warm previously and the grasses and vegetation must have dried out significantly allowing a bushfire to start on one of the hillsides. As I rode closer it was obvious that the fire had caught on well and was spreading as the smoke filled the valley below.
Bushfires in Croatia
As I passed the end of the range that the fire was on a large water bombing plane and a fire truck were on their way to try and bring it under control.
The roads towards Plitvice were really enjoyable with lovely smooth surfaces and predictable and quick, sweeping bends. The weather had also cooled higher into the mountains and away from the coast. It was a great afternoon's riding with some of the best scenery, weather and roads all combined.
I arrived at Plitvice Lakes National Park around 4pm and quickly checked-in to Hotel Plitvice and readied myself to get outside into the beautiful afternoon weather and Plitvice Lakes scenery. Since there was no chance of seeing the entire lakes system in the remaining time in one afternoon I purchased the ticket that allowed me to see more in the morning.
Quite simply Plitvice Lakes National Park is spectacularly beautiful.
Enjoy the photos (perhaps I could have deleted more - too hard to choose).
Hotel Plitvice
Going to Plitvice was based on the recommendation of fellow motorcycle travellers, Judy and Leo (forever family friends), who suggested Plitvice National Park (as well as Durmitor National Park) as a "must see" from one of their previous rides. It is great to have top quality recommendations from top quality friends. Thanks again Judy and Leo.
It was an amazing day and I was really glad to be up in the mountains, wearing a jumper, where the weather was more enjoyable. I went for dinner nearby and having felt crook in the guts all day found it hard to find something 'safe' to eat. I chose the watery spaghetti bolognese.
Early to bed.