After packing up at Hotel Romanov it was time to farewell Sveti Stefan which I had become rather comfortable with. I enjoyed Sveti Stefan for its diversity in visitors, food and accommodation and its quiet separation from som eof the much busier nearby locations.
Although I could have pushed on for the day and left Montenegro behind me I had decided another night on the coast just short of the Croatian border would be a better idea. I planned to ride around the Bay of Kotor to Herceg Novi enjoying the sights along the way.
One of the many seaside villages on the shore of the Bay of Kotor (perhaps Lepetane)
The Bay of Kotor is a wonderful and popular location adjacent to the Mediterranean. The steep mountains surrounding the bay create a wonderful backdrop and also a narrow winding road around the shore.
There are several settlements on the narrow strip where the mountains meet the sea.
The major tourist port town of Kotor
is the destination for many cruise ship travellers…..making it very busy
The ancient Ventian influenced wall for Kotor (with moat)
After a rather quick stop amongst the throngs of tourists in Kotor I continued onwards looking for a quieter and more relaxed spot to stop for lunch. A short ride later I was confirming with security that motorcycles could enter Perast on the edge of the Bay of Kotor despite the ban on all but resident's vehicles.
The natural island off Perast - Ostrvo Sveti Dorde
Island of St George (St George Benedictine Monastery)
A good spot for lunch.
I found a wonderful little restaurant with a fabulous view over the water and a densely shaded outdoor area and a light breeze. Although it was quite warm I was content to remove the jacket and boots to try and cool down without going through the lengthy process required for a swim. I enjoyed a tasty lunch of seafood and salad.
I had parked near two other bikes but could not see anyone at the restaurant who looked like they might be riding…….
When I was getting ready to leave the owners of the other bikes arrived to depart also. Both were wearing sleeveless tops, shorts and thongs and had been for a swim. They changed into their motorbike gear for their short afternoon ride - they put on sneakers!
We briefly discussed the difference in our outfits and agreed that since I was riding almost every day for what could end up being long distances I was doing the right thing wearing a full suit……they had ridden the 300+ km from Split earlier wearing sleeveless tops, jeans and sneakers and were debating if they would do the return leg in their shorts.
The man-made island off Perast - Gospa od Skrpjela
Our Lady of the Rocks (Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of the Rocks)
Wonderful views from Perast over the Bay of Kotor
The bayside village of Perast
Since the two other riders I had met after lunch were heading in the same direction way we all rode off together. After a brief time riding together we arrived at Herceg Novi and I peeled off while they headed onwards towards Croatia.
I arrived in Herceg Novi in the afternoon and was looking forward to a relaxing afternoon stroll along the water. After checking in to the pre-booked Hotel Novi (just in front of a bus load of Turkish students on a European tour) I was ready to cool down in the air-conditioning of the hotel.
Later in the afternoon and after a lengthy walk along the Herceg Novi promenade I decided it was time to relax in a small bar beside the water's edge. The bar seemed popular, whilst remaining relaxed and easygoing. I had a chair, with a table and a few spare chairs to myself and most people were apprehensive about asking for the chairs or to join me despite the crowd.
After a while there was a rush on my table and chairs with two separate groups of people willing to ask the question. One of the groups was from Finland and they were quite happy to join me and share the table. At the same time as I offered my table others in their group had secured a much larger area with room for all of us so I was invited over.
The Finnish Group
Although most in the group were from Finland some were from nearby and were helping them with accommodation and travelling through Croatia, Montenegro and Greece. It was wonderful to meet some fellow travellers who were friendly and good fun. We had a pretty good chat about our travels and our 'local customs' which resulted in many laughs. We debated the appropriateness of the terms "dude" and "mate" and if there might be a similar and typical Finnish alternative - it seems it is not that simple.
We discussed my plans and I was provided with several recommendations to include for my route ahead. Ideas included: Mauria Pass, Stelvio Pass, Marmolada Mountain (Dolomites), Sella Pass, Arabba (Livinallongo del Col di Lana) and Tre Cime di Laverdo (Dolomites).
The Finnish Group
Part of the group had been to Bosnia and Herzegovina in the previous few days and recommended accommodation close to the Mostar Bridge (Cardak Pension). It was wonderful to have a friendly recommendation for accommodation - although I was not sure how soon I would be getting to Mostar at that stage.
Thanks Emilia, Petra, Burkhard, Thomas and Janttu
(Since I am typing after concluding my ride I can confirm that I only managed the Stelvio Pass - it is clear I will need to get back again another day.)