Turkish Cargo (self explanatory)
3rd April I headed to Istanbul's Airport to the Turkish Cargo offices and was quickly spotted by one of many 'helpful' people hanging around looking for people who don't know what they are doing or where they are going. He took me into the Turkish Cargo Office (Customer Service Centre I think - no english signs anywhere), pushed-in to the front, bumped and argued with other people in the line and admittedly got the process started after I paid the 130TL to get the process of releasing the bike underway. He refused to tell me how much he was hoping to get paid from the start and no-one else seemed to be able to shed any light on the going rates for an unsolicited assistant. I was very wary of his assistance and approach.
He persisted and again pushed in to get me a piece of paper that I needed to give the Customs staff upstairs. Again it was all in Turkish and although I couldn't read it I was very cautious when told to fill in my details and sign it when I saw the 20% - 18% indicated. After speaking to the lady at Customs we discussed me paying a Customs Duty of between 18% - 20% for a bike that is temporarily entering the country on a Tourist Transfer Certificate and has a Bank Guarantee being held against it in Abu Dhabi. She agreed it would be discussed with here supervisors and it may not be required. After some English, Turkish and going back and forth I was directed back to Turkish Cargo with the name of a lady at the storage area and a code number she would need. On my way out the door I seemed to have shaken of the 'helper' since he no longer followed me.
I found the lady within a seemingly typical airport office of mayhem, people coming and going, reaching onto desks to take paperwork and nothing to identify what the office was or what service it provided - it seems it was Turkish Cargo Customs staff. The lady was very helpful although she eventually located my motorbike, spoke to various staff and forklift drivers and determined that my bike would not be appearing in their warehouse and release area until 2 or 3pm that day……at least I had a general time-slot. I walked off to a nearby shopping and office complex for some lunch since there was not much else I could do.
After I returned there was still a wait on my bike but it was obvious a few people knew about it and were working to get it delivered so I sat outside and enjoyed the wonderful sunny weather and flowers……….
Some of the lovely flowers on the hill outside Turkish Cargo.
After waiting for what I hoped to be long enough I headed back into the office to check on progress. Another 15 or 20mins waiting and my boxed bike arrived. I was required to inspect it after the lid was removed, and thankfully all looked good inside. The lid was put back on and then the Customs procedures could be finalised.
The boxed bike looked fine although a little damp
Now began much more back and forth, upstairs and downstairs negotiation and discussion regarding what paperwork was required, who filled-in what on what computer programme, who signed or stamped what and so on. Eventually, after two younger staff were given a demonstration in the software package from an older man who many would assume to be less computer literate, me signing a handwritten piece of paper which I am still not sure the purpose of and heading back to the Turkish Cargo Customs staff everyone was happy to let my bike out. A little more paperwork, some more negotiation, and then some written notes signed and stamped within my passport I was good to go.
The box was pushed out onto the loading dock area of the Customs warehouse in an area that was more visible and with more people than I had hoped to dismantle the box and put a few parts back on the bike - I didn't want anything to go missing. Thankfully one of the Turkish Customs men unscrewed the box with his cordless drill and with a little help we lifted the bike up and over the timber pallet base.
Turkish Cargo Customs loading dock reassembly area
Here I spent about the next hour re-installing the windscreen, mirrors, rear top-box rack and fitting all panniers and luggage. Only being interrupted by the Turkish Cargo staff telling me that there was more to pay to release the bike. When I had checked the status on-line in the morning the charges were to be 130TL and also possibly 180TL for warehousing after two days. Since I hadn't paid the 180TL I assumed it was not required……..unfortunately the 180TL became 455TL since my bike was considered Dangerous Goods. Despite my attempts at negotiation in English to Turkish speaking officials it was obvious they would not be letting me ride off without paying the fee. Cash was the only option….I had only got out enough to cover the fees advised on-line and had some cash with me. I was left with 15TL after paying to release my bike.
As is often the situation people gathered around to see what was going on with a few climbing on my bike for photos to have photos taken with their mobile phones.
One of the fellas who was happy to climb on for a photo...
I even got a chance to get back on my bike and see how it felt.
The last obstacle for departure was down the lightweight timber ramp which I preferred over the narrow, bent steel wheel ramps. The ramp held up and I was away………..such a relief.
I celebrated that evening with some Efes in the bar of the hotel with the barman - we didn't speak much. I had dinner in a smoky little local bar (Damla Pub) which was interesting for its people and posters. An older gentleman upgraded me from the stool to a chair and made sure my jacket was on the back and ordered the young staff to attend to me. I ended with spicy chicken wings and Efes. The posters were of a range of scantily clad women such as Jordan, a couple of airbrushed works of dragon/vampire/bat ladies and one they clearly fancied because of the post-it note indicating they wanted to be on her "to do list".
It was comforting to have my hand shaken, wished well and told they were pleased to meet me by several patrons when they departed - fabulous Turkish hospitality.