Here is a run down of what has been happening on my motorcycle ride:
You might find some of the older entries here:
Venice to St Anton - 21st - 22nd July
21 July - Venice to St Anton
Venice - Leaving Alle Guglie B&B
Alle Guglie B&B was a well located and comfortable B&B in Venice and was well priced. After breakfast it was time to leave and the summer weather in Venice was still warm. After the tiring arrival trip, when I was fully laden, I decided I would have a much better day ahead if I took two trips to load the bike and depart Venice before a long day riding into Austria.
I had noted Santiago Calitrava's bridge on the way into Venice so on my way out I thought I would take a quick photo….
All I wanted was a picture of the bridge…..
After they had taken their picture of the bridge, I then got to wait……...
Santiago Calitrava's design is wonderful.
While loading the bike the weather started to look like rain was on the way. It was still warm and although the parking attendant predicted rain would come I decided I wouldn't zip in the rain layer…..just yet.
Bike loaded up in the car park - time to go.
Although I had only ridden for a short while I had spent most of the time looking for a suitable spot to pull over and get ready for higher altitudes and heavier rain. The car wash in Resana, Northern Italy, was nice and dry, and a great place to get changed and ready for wet weather.
Under cover, staying dry, putting on my rain layers.
After getting ready for the impending rain I headed off into the mountains and up the Brenta River Valley via Valstagna, Borgo, and Levico Ferme before arriving in Trento mid-afternoon.
The roads, valleys and mountains were spectacular as I headed deeper into the Alps.
I stopped for a late lunch, off the beaten track in Trento. I gave the kebab a go, to compare and contrast to the ones I had enjoyed in Turkey……Perhaps not the best idea…...
Time to keep moving since I still had a fair way to go to get to St Anton for the night and I was hoping to head over Passo Rombo / Timmelsjoch at 2,509 m along the way.
St Leonhard in Passeier
St Leonhard in Passeier
As I rode deeper into the Tyrols, up the Passeier Valley, the weather had remained kind to me. There were large expanses of blue sky, with clouds accumulating around the mountain peaks - where I was heading.
Moos in Passeier
Moos in Passeier
Moos in Passeier
Moos in Passeier
Moos in Passeier
Moos in Passeier - let the bends begin!
Leaving the Passeier Valley behind me it was time to make it over the Rombo Pass / Timmelsjoch and cross the border into Austria.
Passo del Rombo / Timmelsjoch
Passo del Rombo / Timmelsjoch
Passo del Rombo / Timmelsjoch
Passo del Rombo / Timmelsjoch
Although there had been a few spots of rain earlier in the day I was now getting wet - thankfully I had the rain layers zipped in. The border crossing into Austria from Italy is atop the Rombo Pass / Timmelsjoch at around 2,500 m. The rain had started and the temperature had dropped to around 5deg.C - a significant change from the hot weather in Venice.
It was 7:30 pm, cold and raining and I still had over 100km's to get to St Anton…..
After riding for 2 hours in pouring rain after dark I was thankful to arrive in St Anton. Although it was dark and raining I did a quick tour of the small village to see who had lights on and where - much quieter than during snow season. I found Grieshof Hotel, in the centre of town, open and happy to accommodate me.
I was glad to get out of the saturated riding suit.
After a nice, warm shower, I was soon dressed and ready for some food and drinks after a long and weather-filled day. I missed the hotels 10pm dinner deadline so headed out to find a pizza and some beer. After the owner filled the small bar/cafe with the smoke from my burnt pizza I was a little wary of the next attempt……thankfully it came out unburnt and I enjoyed as much as I could with another beer.
I was soon back at Grieshof and stopped to speak to a few of the other guests over a beer. The Germans were a little confused (they had enjoyed a beer or two) as to where I was from, where my bike was from, how I would be riding for so long and why and where I would be going…..
Anyway, bed time…….. I awoke through the night with either pizza or kebab to blame!
22nd July - St Anton
Thankfully I had arranged to spend the day in St Anton relaxing and working on this website (should have put in a few more hours it seems).
Flowering Tree Trunks?
Grieshof - my bike and my host's.
I had a relaxed day looking after my upset stomach, working on this website, window shopping, organising some accommodation and watching the German F1 GP over a light lunch. I had an early dinner at Grieshof and an early night.
Stelvio Pass tomorrow.
Holiday La Marca to Venice / Murano / Burano / Torcello - 19th - 20th July
19th July - Holiday La Marca to Venice
I woke to find that the website upload had completed during my night's sleep. It was time for brekky.
At check-in I was advised that the included breakfast was "basic", "coffee and a croissant". Perhaps there was a special occasion because breakfast was a wonderful spread of cereals, fruits, pastries, yoghurt, savoury meats and cheeses and cappuccino. I enjoyed a slow breakfast because check-out was later and Venice was a relatively short ride.
Around 11:30 am I was packed up and loaded up and heading for Venice. It was a fairly slow ride in through several villages and heavy traffic. About an hour later I pulled into the multi storey car park where I would be leaving my bike for the 2 nights I would be in Venice. I considered taking two trips to carry my gear to the B&B and decided I might as well take it all in one go…..
As I was getting ready to leave my bike Thomas, from Spain, was also getting organised for a few hours of sightseeing in Venice. Based on the stickers on his bike he was rather well travelled also.
After I had strung my gear over my neck like a pack-horse I headed off for Alle Guglie B&B over the canals in the Venetian heat of July. I am sure I looked a little odd carting my gear to the hotel wearing my motorcycle suit while most tourists were in their shorts and lightweight shirts. I sweated my way to the B&B and arrived well and truly ready to dump my gear and get changed into something more comfortable.
I pressed the doorbell - nobody home! I only waited a short time before Antonio appeared along the lane to let me in. A quick chat to sort out the 'rules of the house', a quick shower and I was changed and ready to start seeing a little of what Venice has to offer.
A break for lunch was needed and I thought that by being off the beaten tourist paths I might find a small local establishment that would be pleasant and perhaps a little cheaper…….
I should have realised I was in Venice and bargains would be hard to find, wherever I tried. I was now spending Euro, and some of the more expensive ones too.
Venice - one of the few trees!
Venice - gondola.
Venice - rare vegetation.
Venice - graffiti!
Venice
As is my preference, I avoided the high profile and heavily trafficked areas of Venice to see what many of the tourists may not see. I walked through quite alleys and lanes, through empty squares and alongside mirror-like canals. I looked out through vistas to other islands without another person or boat enjoying the same scene. This was the quiet side of Venice….
I knew it wouldn't last forever!
Venice - a couple of tourists…..
Venice - Piazzo San Marco (St Mark's Square)
Venice - St Mark's Basilica
Venice
After a dose of hectic tourist locations it was time for another break and some quieter canals, lanes, alleys and pathways.
Venice - a little more vegetation.
After a good afternoon of Venetian sights, sounds and walking it was time to head back to Alle Guglie B&B. I logged in to the in-house WiFi and proceeded toe get to work on this website. After a while it was time for dinner. I asked my host Antonio for ideas and suggestions for dinner and instead he offered to make me some simple pasta. We had a bowl of pasta and some red wine on his balcony. After dinner Antonio headed off to collect some more guests and I weighed up the options - go out on the town or go to bed. I was tired enough to choose the latter - bed time it was.
Murano - 20th July
After waking early I stayed comfortably in bed waiting for brekky. I had booked in 8:30 am thinking I would sleep through. Brekky was tasty and Antonio assisted with advice on water bus tickets and getting to/from Murano, Burano and Torcello (other islands close to Venice).
I purchased a 12hr water bus ticket and was ready for a long day visiting a few of the islands surrounding Venice. There was a little confusion waiting for the water bus, and the driver of one water bus that wouldn't take passengers advised that there was a limited strike on due to a wages and working conditions dispute and almost all boats were not going to Murano.
Venice - water bus.
After a relatively quick change to a larger boat I was soon en route to Murano. Murano is renowned for its glass making and in particular lamp working (beads). Due to the transport strike there were very few people in Murano and it was easy to walk the small island looking for examples of the various glass making styles and techniques.
Murano - glass glass making.
Murano - glass glass.
Murano - glass sculpture (perhaps Dale Chihuly?) in reds.
Murano - glass sculpture (perhaps Dale Chihuly?) in blues.
Murano - streetscapes.
Murano was very interesting. There was a range of artisans making smaller quantities and individual pieces using traditional techniques, while there were also skilled craftsmen turning out set, after set, of glasses in front of hot furnaces and what may have been trainees turning out bucket loads of beads using modern and toxic methods. On the day I was there it was also very quiet, thanks to the transport strike.
Burano - 20th July
I continued onwards making the most of my 12 hour boat pass. I headed for the nearby Burano which is renowned for its lacework, colourful building facades and the leaning tower (campanile) on the Church of San Martino.
Burano - leaning tower of the Church of San Martino
Burano - seemed to be washing day
Burano - the colourful facades
Burano - the leaning tower of the Church of San Martino
Burano - lacework
Torcello - 20th July
After a good look around the small island community of Burano I headed to Torcello which is the longest continuously inhabited Venetian island and was traditionally the political and trading centre of the Venetian community. At its peak the island hosted a population of more than 10,000. Malaria, and clogged salt marshes, made Torcello much less attractive to live in than Murano, Burano and Venice. Today Torcello is lucky to have 20 people still living there while Venice has grown to accommodate over 263,000 people.
Torcello - Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta
Torcello - gardens
After Torcello (it isn't very big and there isn't much to see) I headed back to Burano to catch another boat back to Venice.
Venice - 20th July
Another boat.
Venice
Back on the island of Venice I queued up for a ticket and trip up to the top of the clock tower for elevated views over the city and island.
Venice - as seen from the clock tower
San Marco Square - as seen from the clock tower
Thanks for the photo.
San Marco Square - back down on the ground
San Marco Square - Florian (est. 1720) with their orchestra
San Marco Square - Great spot to get ripped-off for a relaxing G&T
I decided to sit, relax and enjoy an afternoon drink in Piazza San Marco as the afternoon sun was fading off the square - I imagine it is one of the 'things to do'. I chose Caffe Florian (est. 1720 and perhaps the oldest continually serving coffee house) because it had a fabulous outlook and wonderful orchestra. I have since learned that they have an outpost in Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi.
As I checked their drinks menu (without prices) I assumed that there would be a price to match the location and the music. I ordered a G&T and decided to upgrade the G to Hendrick's to reminisce - one of my Australian mates who had worked with me in Abu Dhabi first introduced me to Hendrick's. Apart from the expected high price the only disappointment was that such a 'fancy' establishment refuses to serve a modern G&T in accordance with Hendrick's suggestion of cucumber instead of citrus (lemon or lime). Eventually a staff member appeared and after some discussion advised that Florian and the Manager don't "do" that, although he conceded Hendrick's recommendation to be expected and appropriate in such a venue as Florian's.
I still had a few more hours on my 12hr water bus pass and I hadn't been along the Grand Canal. It was time to keep moving and see what I could see.
Louis Vuitton - Window Dressing
Louis Vuitton - Window Dressing
Venice - the bridges are popular for attaching padlocks symbolising everlasting love
Venice - The Grand Canal
Venice - The Grand Canal and Casino
Scalzi (The Church of Santa Maria di Nazareth)
After a fairly long day of sightseeing I was ready for dinner and Alle Guglie B&B. Along the route back to the B&B I found a place for dinner. Disinterested staff and poor food, not to mention using my thong to hold up the table, made dinner all the more memorable.
Although it was getting a little late I decided to grab a couple of beers and work on this website before bed back at Alle Guglie B&B - considering I am still going on it mid 2013 perhaps a few more hours would have been time well spent……..
Plitvice to Tolmin to Holiday La Marca (Lancenigo villorba - Italy) - 17th - 18th July
17th July - Plitvice National Park (Croatia) to Tolmin (Slovenia)
This morning I enjoyed a basic Croatian hotel breakfast and headed out quickly to see the lower section of the Plitvice Lakes. As expected, after yesterday's scenery, the Lakes were spectacular.
Enjoy the photos please (rest assured there are heaps more photos I could have included):
Lower Plitvice National Park
Plitvice National Park - Boat trip back to the Visitor's Centre near the Hotel
Plitvice National Park - Hotel Plitvice
The day had been fabulous for viewing the Lower Lakes and was shaping up to be a beautiful day for riding too. After loading up the bike I was ready to make my way towards Slovenia.
Once again the roads out of Plitvice National Park towards Slovenia were fabulous. I was happily enjoying the riding immensely until a bend, lightly covered with gravel matching the road surface, reminded me how quickly things can change.
I hit the gravel, while leaned over for the right-hander, and immediately the rear wheel slid without any time or chance for me to respond in any way. On other slides I had instinctively put a foot out to try and stabilise the bike, on this occasion I simply rode it out and let it happen.
Gravel on the road = rear wheel slide
I came out the other end of the corner surprised, and visibly thankful, I had not slid out and ended up on my side. I turned the bike around and went back to see what had caused the sudden and unsettling slide. I looked at the slide through the thin layer of gravel and was surprised at the length of it.
Gravel on the road = rear wheel slide (approx. 3-4m long)
Not having had experience in slides such as this I am not sure if I was lucky, skilled or it if is common to simply slide your way through and out the other side. After the photos of the 'near miss' I headed onwards for Slovenia through more amazing roads and scenery glad to have remained upright and able to continue.
I stopped for a kebab lunch in Ogulin and met a couple of fellow motorcyclists while I was finishing my food. The first rode a Honda and the second a Yamaha Tenere. I spoke to the man on the Yamaha Tenere (Mr A. Wittner) who had bought his bike and all the gear and arranged all the visas he needed to travel through many countries and then…..he met a woman….so he isn't going anywhere.
After lunch I rode off for Slovenia.
Amazing roads and scenery continue in Croatia
Amazing roads and scenery continue in Croatia
Amazing roads and scenery continue in Croatia
Crossing the border into Slovenia (near Brod na Kupi and Petrina) I was delayed by a younger border guard who was clearly making sure he was doing his job correctly while his senior staff were around. When the more senior staff realised I was not at all local he asked where I was going, offered the wonderful suggestion of a brand new road through the mountains that is hardly even used, and hurried me through into Slovenia.
The recommended route was fabulous with quiet local roads sweeping along the Croatian border (Kolpa River), through wonderfully green and lush fields, up and over the mountains from the small settlement of Zgornji Cacic on a brand new road with only 2 or 3 other vehicles, and once again through beautiful open stretches with green grass and forested hills.
Into Croatia and along the Kolpa River
'Interesting' roadside sculpture - Watch Out for Forest Men…?
Along the way I stopped for a refreshing double Sprite on the rocks. As I enjoyed the ice-cold drink and the relief for my rear off the motorbike I spoke briefly with one of the locals.
The local asked if I was bored travelling alone…….through many new and different countries…..I said that I wasn't and that the only boring days are the ones where I am not going somewhere new or seeing something different………..I referred to the different countries, amazing scenery, wonderful roads, fabulous people, and all of the other motorcyclists I pass who share the experience and wave.
I thought over what he had asked and I think what he really meant was lonely. Of course there were times when I was lonely and I imagine all solo travellers are at times.
Wonderful expanses of various shades of green
Most na Soci (Soca River) - World War I monument (Perhaps to Austrians)
WATCH OUT - YOU MIGHT FALL OFF!
After riding the wonderful roads with spectacular scenery of southern Slovenia, and managing to stay upright I arrived in Tolmin. I looked around for somewhere to stay before finding Pension Rutar adjacent to the Town Square. I parked my heavily loaded bike next to two other bikes on a much leaner diet.
After organising my room and reviving myself with a shower and fresh clothes I was ready for some beers and dinner. Whilst I waited for my deer for dinner I met Burkhard and Thomas from Austria who were on a 3-4 day ride. They had both done several rides and recommended too many roads and passes for me to recall or cover on my way through. It was great to get a few ideas from riders who had travelled these parts several times before.
The deer in Slovenia wasn't particularly tender or tasty although the dinner was overall quite good. After a long day sightseeing and riding I was happy for an early night in the quiet township of Tolmin.
18th July - Tolmin (Slovenia) to Lancenigo Villorba (Italy)
While I took it relatively easy enjoying my breakfast Burkhard and Thomas were up and at it nice and early due to their much shorter timeframe. I managed to quickly grab a photo before they departed before I headed back upstairs to pack and ready myself to depart.
Burkhard and Thomas - Austrians on a 3-4 day ride
About leave Pension Rutar (Tolmin, Slovenia)
A short ride down the hill from Tolmin reaches the Soca River. Although running a little cloudy at the time, the river is beautiful and renowned for its emerald green colour.
Soca River, Slovenia
Soca River, Slovenia
Soca River, Slovenia
Soca River, Slovenia
After the brief stop beside the Soca River I was soon to leave Slovenia behind me and arrive in Italy. The border crossing into Italy is a non-event and signified my arrival into the EU and drive-through borders from now on.
Italy border crossing - quick and easy.
I had entered this part of Italy in the hope of meeting some of my parent's friends from Mittagong (Luciano) who spend their summers back home in northern Italy. Their hometown is Cividale and my parent's had given me directions to their street and house. After missing the address on the first pass I decided I might as well see what the centre of town looked like.
As I rode into Cividale I was impressed by the small centre of the village and its historically grand nature. It was obvious that Cividale was a relatively small although a historically important regional centre located over the Natisone River. The old centre of Cividale del Fruili was a wonderful sight, representing my first Italian town centre on the trip.
Once again, as I had become comfortable doing, I parked my bike adjacent to the main church and square, to get my bearings/ask directions.
Centre of Cividale del Fruili - Parrocchia di San Maria Assunta
I couldn't leave the centre without also stopping near the bridge looking back towards the old town.
Cividale del Fruili
Cividale del Fruili
After leaving the centre of town with much clearer directions and understanding of street numbering I found the address I was looking for and……………nobody was home. A neighbour advised that they were away and that their sister lived a couple of houses away and might be able to help.
I was soon introduced to Pina (Josephine) who is Luciano's sister. Pina quickly welcomed me inside her home and apologised for her hair still being partly done and advised that Luciano and his wife were attending the theatre and would not be back until tomorrow.
I was welcomed inside for stovetop (Bialetti) coffee (what else?) and biscuits. Pina talked fondly of her travels and mentioned her trips: Russia 3x, Australia 12x, Africa, not China (too expensive), Europe (of course) and Slovenia (beautiful). Pina obviously loved her travelling and seemed to miss it/long for more.
Although I hadn't met my parents friends from Mittagong I had met their sister and that was wonderful.
Pina - not entirely happy to have her photo taken mid hairstyling.
Luciano's home in Cividale
Although I was welcome to stay longer in Cividale I chose to continue onwards. I rode towards Venice and passed through several villages, towns and cities. As I passed through Pordenone a little bit of architecture caught my eye:
Pordenone architecture
As I continued onwards towards Venice I sought out accommodation. I used the recommendations of the GPS to guide me……….unfortunately not to anything worthwhile. Eventually after riding past several uninspiring accommodation options I found something slightly better. Holiday La Marca was perfectly acceptable, on the road into Venice, comfortable and had food and beverages within their boundary fence (it was essentially a highway industrial location).
Although I had much success with internet along my journey I had now encountered the much more regulated situation of higher tourist environments. I worked on this website in the afternoon over some snacks and beers preparing it for a later upload because there was limited/paid access in common areas and the room only had internet and power while I was there. Prior to heading out for dinner, I left the room key in the room, chocked the door open and I pressed the upload button and hoped for the best………………
I enjoyed some wonderful salmone nero raviole with white wine before returning to confirm the upload of my website……………..it hadn't finished yet.
I left it to take its course and I would see how things were progressing in the morning before leaving for Venice.
Split to Plitvice National Park - 15th - 16th July
15th July - Split
The priority on my first morning in Split was to find some amazing coffee and wonderful pastries for breakfast (and Euro to pay for accommodation). As I wandered through the lane ways towards the Old Town I kept my eyes and nose on alert for the sight of other early morning breakfast seekers and smells of freshly extracted coffee.
Split Architecture
While I was hunting down my breakfast I got my first glimpses of Split's history and architecture along the way.
Prokurative (Republic) Square - Split
I managed to find a pleasant little bakery cafe and picked up some perfectly acceptable pastries and coffee. With my breakfast back in the rooms of Villa Leticia I settled in to work on this website. After completing a quick and ongoing update I was ready to head out into the narrow streets and open squares of Split again. The day was looking like it would be beautifully clear and rather warm….
I just needed to check my hairstyle progress on the way….
One of the major attractions of Split's Old Town is Diocletian's Palace. The many buildings that make up Diocletian Palace are arranged above a basement that elevates most of the walkways, lanes and squares above the adjoining level of the shoreline. Within the basement and underground complex are now small shops, museum wings and other sections closed to the public.
The foreshore in front of Diocletian's Palace is very popular - Split
The basement/underground complex Diocletian's Palace - Split
The basement/underground complex Diocletian's Palace - Split
The basement/underground complex makes way for a garden
Diocletian's Palace - Split
The lane-ways above the basement create a series of maze-like paths that open out into small courtyards completely overshadowed by the surrounding buildings and also much larger and open spaces providing wonderful views to other distant and taller buildings.
Tower - Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian Palace) - Split
Typical lane-way Diocletian Palace - Split
Small square (shops and residences) Diocletian Palace - Split
Cafes, bars, restaurants, seating in Diocletian Palace - Split
Temple to Jupiter (Diocletian Palace) - Split
Pjaca (People's Square - Nardoni Trg) - Split
Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian Palace) - Split
Tower - Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian Palace) - Split
After exploring the lane-ways, alleys, courtyards and squares of Diocletian's Palace it was time to sit down, relax and enjoy a tasty lunch while watching others pass me by. I had seen a few possibilities outside the walls of Diocletian's Palace and returned to Pjaca (People's Square - Nardoni Trg).
Out of the several options around the square I chose No Stress Bar/Bistro. I thought that sounded like the way to go and they offered FREE WiFi too.
I sat down, waited a while for the opportunity to order and eventually asked for some ravioli…..mmmmmmm, mmmm. I also waited for the WiFi access code………apparently it comes with your receipt? after you pay? I was lucky enough to persuade the staff to give me one that seemed to be from someone's earlier receipt.
While I waited form my ravioli I watched a newly wed couple come into the square for some photos (I was a little slow to get the camera going so I only caught them leaving).
A wedding photo in the square - Split
Goodbye - a wedding photo in the square - Split
I sat outside, under the shade of an umbrella, in 37deg.C+ waiting for my ravioli to be delivered for over 1.5hours. Once it came it was poorly made and poorly cooked. I asked if another attempt could be made to get it right……the staff gave the impression that there was nothing wrong with it…..they tried again, and again I sat and waited…….after another lengthy wait (now almost 2hrs sitting there) another plate of dreadful ravioli appeared.
The kitchen was 0 for 2 and my plate returned again with the staff acknowledging it was a poor effort with rather unsatisfactory excuses offered. A mother and daughter nearby were also having a rather unsatisfactory lunch but seemed much luckier and received their replacement meal much quicker than I. Having no luck with two plates of ravioli I decided to try the simple avocado, tomato and mozzarella salad. Surely they could manage to cook that correctly…..
Perhaps one of the simplest salads in existence arrived with flavourless and rock hard avocado. After a couple of mouthfuls it was time to complain again. Although I was offered free drinks and another attempt at food I declined and it was agreed I would not pay for the pleasure of sitting for over 2hrs in the heat of the Mediterranean sun, and I certainly didn't want to sit there any longer.
Perhaps "No Stress" refers to the approach of the staff and management…..and based on the 215 "Likes" on facebook it seems not too many people are too fussed about them either.
Quiet day in Split - hot weather, holiday season and weekend.
Quiet day in Split - hot weather, holiday season and weekend.
There were hardly any people walking the streets in the early afternoon. I imagine many people were enjoying an afternoon nap (after they had a relaxed, tasty and satisfying lunch), keeping out of the sun and the heat or relaxing with a swim somewhere along the Dalmatian Coast.
Split Street Art
In the early evening, after some of the sting had gone from the sun, I headed for one of the nearby Split swimming spots. I now knew where many people had been for hours throughout the afternoon. There were many groups of people along the water's edge, in the sun or the shade, on the grass, gravel or rocks, swimming or drying off.
Busy day by the water Split - holiday season and weekend.
The water was wonderful. A relaxing and refreshing temperature and amazingly clear and filled with marine life. I swam for quite some time chasing the fish and enjoying the fading sunlight.
Busy night in Split - holiday season and weekend.
I returned to Diocletian's Palace in the hope that I would have a much better experience with dinner than I had with lunch. Rather than a 'trendy' bar/bistro I looked for a more reasonable, honest and local establishment. I found a small restaurant (Zalogajnic Dioclecijan) with outdoor seating against the wall of the old palace and decided to try the local sausage, salad and beer…..it was certainly better than lunch although nothing spectacular.
It was time for bed.
16th July - Split to Plitvice
I had made arrangements to meet Stipe (BMW Moto Klub - Split) to take me to a friend of his for a new front tyre so it was a reasonably early morning packing up and leaving Villa Leticia.
Villa Leticia
After packing and loading the bike I met Stipe and followed him to the place for my new front tyre. While the tyre was being fitted, Miro, a friend of Stipe's arrived to join us for the morning and the ride out of town when I was to depart.
New Front Tyre
After the new front tyre was fitted and paid for it was time for some breakfast. Stipe asked what I wanted and I innocently suggested something like "bacon and eggs". Stipe asked if I would wanted something more local and I said "yes" (of course - why else would you travel somewhere and meet someone if not to enjoy their place and their ways).
Stipe and Miro talked for a little while to recall nearby locations for where we could go for a more local and traditional breakfast. We had tripe! with wine!? for breakfast (although by that time it was getting closer to lunch).
Stipe and Miro took me for breakfast - bowl of tripe with white wine.
I am pretty sure it is the first time I have knowingly had tripe (I may have had some in China without anyone telling me). To be fair the tripe wasn't particularly enjoyable mainly due to the texture and chewing required, the flavour of the stew sauce was really quit good and the vegetables were very tasty. Thankfully the wine was well diluted and a single glass was quite enough before lunch.
Miro (R80GS)
After breakfast Stipe and Miro showed me the way out of Split.
Stipe, Miro and I stopped on the way out of Split for a coffee (although to be honest I was a little wary that more wine may have been about to be ordered). We chatted some more over the coffee then it was time for me to leave them to get back to Split while I rode on to Plitvice.
Saying goodbye to Miro
Saying goodbye to Stipe
After farewelling Stipe and Miro I was on my way towards Plitvice. The countryside and roads were wonderful and it was great to be out int eh countryside of Croatia. For the first time in a long time the weather on the road was pleasantly cool at around 20deg.C. It was great to be riding with the jacket zipped-up again and feeling comfortable with the temperature.
Bushfires in Croatia
On the way to Plitvice
Although the weather was cool that day I imagine it had been very warm previously and the grasses and vegetation must have dried out significantly allowing a bushfire to start on one of the hillsides. As I rode closer it was obvious that the fire had caught on well and was spreading as the smoke filled the valley below.
Bushfires in Croatia
As I passed the end of the range that the fire was on a large water bombing plane and a fire truck were on their way to try and bring it under control.
The roads towards Plitvice were really enjoyable with lovely smooth surfaces and predictable and quick, sweeping bends. The weather had also cooled higher into the mountains and away from the coast. It was a great afternoon's riding with some of the best scenery, weather and roads all combined.
I arrived at Plitvice Lakes National Park around 4pm and quickly checked-in to Hotel Plitvice and readied myself to get outside into the beautiful afternoon weather and Plitvice Lakes scenery. Since there was no chance of seeing the entire lakes system in the remaining time in one afternoon I purchased the ticket that allowed me to see more in the morning.
Quite simply Plitvice Lakes National Park is spectacularly beautiful.
Enjoy the photos (perhaps I could have deleted more - too hard to choose).
Hotel Plitvice
Going to Plitvice was based on the recommendation of fellow motorcycle travellers, Judy and Leo (forever family friends), who suggested Plitvice National Park (as well as Durmitor National Park) as a "must see" from one of their previous rides. It is great to have top quality recommendations from top quality friends. Thanks again Judy and Leo.
It was an amazing day and I was really glad to be up in the mountains, wearing a jumper, where the weather was more enjoyable. I went for dinner nearby and having felt crook in the guts all day found it hard to find something 'safe' to eat. I chose the watery spaghetti bolognese.
Early to bed.
Leaving Mostar - Kravice Waterfalls - Tucepi (Split BMW Club) - Split - 14th July
The overnight music pumping throughout the city had stopped by the time I was up and about in the morning and so it was another quiet and pleasant morning in Mostar. I was able to wander the empty streets, taking a few photos, while waiting for the nearby breakfast cafe/restaurant to open.
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
Early Morning Mostar
After a simple, relaxed and pleasant breakfast I was back at Cardak Pension packing my gear and readying myself for the return to Croatia. I had booked a place in Split so at least I knew I had a destination and a bed for the night.
Time to leave Cardak Pension, Mostar.
Time to leave Cardak Pension, Mostar.
It was one of my earlier departure times since I had a decent distance to go to make Split and I was looking forward to a swim at some waterfalls or in the Mediterranean along the way. I was soon heading up the steep and narrow cobbled footpaths out of Mostar and on my way towards Croatia.
I had heard about Kravice Waterfalls and set them as a late morning stop-off for a swim along the way. The ride towards Kravice Waterfalls was rather hot and I was certainly looking forward to a swim. Along the way I spotted a roadside tyre dealer and workshop and since I had not had much luck at BMW Mostar I pooped in to see if they could help. Although much friendlier and interested they didn't have the tyres I was looking for and advised that since I was on my way to Split I should be able to find a new tyre there.
Although the GPS was incredibly useful it was struggling with directing me to Kravice Waterfalls. After a few directions (mainly pointing and gesturing) from a man at a nearby petrol station I was on the right track.
I parked the motorbike beside the road as close as possible to the refreshing water in the shade.
I left some gear locked with the bike and walked down to the grassed area near pools and got (mostly) naked before slipping into some swimmers and heading for the water. The water was wonderfully refreshing (not too cold) and remarkably clear and fresh. It was great for a swim and is very popular.
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Despite the hassle of getting out of, and back into, a full motorcycle riding suit the break and swim at Kravice Waterfalls was a great break along the way. I was soon fully dressed and sweating my way towards Croatia and the Mediterranean coastline.
After another queue jumping border crossing I was back into Croatia and being reacquainted with the wonderful scenery.
Bacina Lakes
Once riding along, or above, the Croatian coastline I was looking for an inviting seaside location to stop for lunch. After putting off the lunch stop for long enough I turned off the highway down to Gradac. As I approached the water's edge I wondered what I had stumbled upon. At first all I could see were several vintage BMW motorcycles, many with sidecars parked up and on display.
As I parked behind a much more recent BMW R100GS PD and locked my jacket and helmet to my bike I was approached by the owner of the R100GS PD (Stipe) who was quite happy to invite me to join him and the group. Stipe was from the Split BMW Motor Club and was involved in arrangements for the classic cars and bikes that were on show.
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes (and mine)
Gradac - Classic Cars and Bikes
I joined Stipe for some pizza and a relax overlooking the water while the bikes and cars were on show. Stipe had helped make arrangements for the cars and bikes to pass through a few seaside towns back to Split throughout the day. His father who had both classic cars and bikes had a car in the procession.
After lunch I helped Stipe and a couple of others lead the route ahead for the cars and bikes and stop the traffic on the highway to allow the procession to proceed as one. After the last of the cars and bikes had gone past I headed off to follow from the back of the pack.
A short distance down the road an old military styled bike pulled off the road with a flat tyre. I joined Stipe to see what help we could offer. Stipe had quickly accessed his tyre pump only to find the connections were missing. He asked if I had a pump…….I did (my younger brother, Bob, had given it to me for Christmas for special occasions such as this).
After removing two of my outer bags I could access the panner with the pump inside. I then had to remove a few items from the pannier before I could access the pump. I connected the pump to the battery power supply and we tried to pump up the old and completely flat tyre. After a short time it was obvious that our efforts would be futile since the tyre had completely dislodged from the wheel and there was no chance of getting a seal and/or enough pressure to get the tyre inflated. He left his bike and hopped in an old jeep to join the rest of the parade.
Stipe and I followed well behind the cars and bikes along the coast to Tucepi. Once we arrived in Tucepi we parked our bikes with a twin to Stipe's BMW R100GS PD. The twin belonged to Stipe's friend Mario.
I found while we chatted throughout the afternoon, and into the evening, that Stipe had found his rather rare BMW R100GS PD first and Mario was rather impressed by it. It took Mario a little while before he could find another one for himself. So now, two friends in Croatia have matching, rare, BMW R100GS PD's.
Mario
Stipe
After a long and relaxed afternoon it was time for me to be heading onwards with Stipe to Split. Stipe offered to show me a more exciting route than simply following the highway. Along the way we popped in to a backpackers (Hostel Casa Vecchia) that was owned and managed by an Australian who had ridden with Stipe a few times and Stipe hoped we could meet. Although the owner of the backpackers wasn't there we still stopped for a little while before continuing onwards.
Bikes lined up at Hostel Casa Vecchia
After the quick stop Stipe, Mario and I headed off until Mario left us and returned to his wife back in Tucepi. Stipe and I continued on to Split taking the scenic route. We took the mountain road behind Omis and then onwards to Split. I lost Stipe for a little while when I needed to stop check out the roadside scenery a little more closely.
Stipe rode with me all the way into Split and was sure he could take me straight to my accommodation - Villa Leticia. We were very close to the address and Stipe conceded that the narrow and one way roads were a little tricky and called my host. My host found us a short distance down the street.
I said goodbye to Stipe knowing that I would see him again before I left Split (since he was chasing a replacement tyre for me through one of his contacts).
It had been a great day and it was fabulous to meet friendly and generous locals who were so willing introduce me their friends, to show me better routes and help out in any way they could. In fact, if I hadn't pre-booked accommodation I was offered the Split BMW Club clubhouse for as long as I wanted.
Thanks Stipe and Mario.
Leaving Montenegro - Not staying in Croatia - Bosnia and Herzegovina (Mostar) - 12th - 13th July
I was happy to check out of Hotel Novi as late as possible since I didn't have a definite plan for the day and I was happy to see what might happen with several options in front of me. The border crossing into Croatia was only about 5km up the road and Dubrovnik, where I had a vague idea of having lunch and stumbling upon some wonderful accommodation, was around 70km away. The other option was Bosnia and Herzegovina which is easily accessed a little further north after Dubrovnik.
It was already rather warm (37.5deg.C) by the time I made it to the rather long queue at the Montenegro-Croatia border crossing.
Border Crossing out of Montenegro
As I am sure you can appreciate I wasn't particularly happy having to stop, and wait, as both my bike and I got hotter and hotter.
Border Crossing out of Montenegro
I decided that the air-conditioned motorists wouldn't begrudge a motorcyclist, dripping with sweat and all documents at the ready, to pass by to the front of the line…….
Border Crossing out of Montenegro
After a few cars weren't happy to allow me in I was eventually allowed into the line and was quickly through the checkpoint and into Croatia, my 5th country on the trip.
A couple of bends past the checkpoint the road turned to gravel due to lengthy roadworks. It was great to be back onto gravel and experiencing extensive roadworks since I had been missing them after Albania…….
After a distance smooth bitumen replaced the rough gravel and I was quickly approaching Dubrovnik. The initial experience of Croatia was through rural countryside with many paddocks filling the valley floor alongside the river. It wasn't long, however, before the road reached the coastline and gave some wonderful riding and spectacular views that Croatia is renowned for.
From the highway, before reaching Dubrovnik, it is possible to get a fabulous view down to the old city. I decided I would try my luck in the old part of town by stopping for lunch and looking for nearby accommodation that may be available.
Dubrovnik - Looks good from here!
It was hot and I was looking forward to stopping in Dubrovnik since I had heard how wonderful it is. As I rode into Dubrovnik the hot weather and the traffic were not creating a great first impression. Initially I tried following my nose and excellent sense of direction without success. I then tried a general direction based on the GPS map…..
I didn't make it to the beautiful old town of Dubrovnik. Instead I ended up parked beside one of the wide roads in the newer part of town. The temperature and traffic had taken their toll and I needed water and an ice cream before I made any more rash decisions or progress.
I soon found out that Croatia has its own currency and doesn't accept anything else. I extracted way too much from the ATM and ended up with a lot of change after buying 2L of water and an ice cream.
While I enjoyed my melting ice cream and ice cold bottle of water I decided I would leave Croatia now to return a little later on my trip (to spend my bundle of their Croatian Kunas). As much as I had hoped to visit Dubrovnik, I was finding the high temperatures combined with the high numbers of tourists and their traffic was reducing my ability to experience and enjoy such wonderful locations as I had hoped. I thought it would be better to save it for another day.
I had made an on the spot decision to head to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I was hopeful I could find the accommodation recommended by the friendly Finnish in Herceg Novi and that they had a vacancy.
After leaving Dubrovnik the road follows the wonderful Croatian coastline before you cross into Bosnia and Herzegovina (informally), pass through Bosnia and Herzegovina's small strip of Mediterranean coastal land (around 10km), and back into Croatia (informally again). This odd strip of land and the issues it causes between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina are the result of the Treaty of Karlowitz (1699).
Shortly after passing through a little slice of Bosnia and Herzegovina and being back into Croatia I was at the 'official' border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina.
4th Border Crossing in one day!
Once again there was a rather lengthy queue of cars and on this occasion I was graciously allowed to ride up the outside and slip into the checkpoint as soon as I had my paperwork ready for display. It was a very quick and easy crossing both out of Croatia, and into Bosnia and Herzegovina. It seems that Australians, on Abu Dhabi registered motorbikes are not what they are concerned about……..they are both more concerned about their respective neighbours.
I continued up the impressive Neretva River valley towards Mostar.
On the outskirts of Mostar I noticed a BMW Motorrad dealer. Since I was in need of a new front tyre I decided I would stop in to see if they were interested in assisting me……..In short, stopping off at the BMW dealership was rather disappointing.
None of the staff gave any indication of being even slightly interested in an Australian motorcyclist, on a fully loaded-up BMW motorcycle entering their store or enquiring about a replacement tyre. In essence I was told they didn't have a tyre, couldn't get one for at least a week, I could try another shop on the way into town or I could go to Croatia to get one.
Thanks BMW Motorrad Tomic, Mostar.
I continued on to the centre of Mostar in the hope of finding somewhere to sleep close to the old bridge and centre of the old town. As I approached the old part of town it became apparent that parking and access was rather restricted throughout the stone cobbled streets. I explained to the gentleman guiding and directing that I only wanted to stop for a brief time while I found my accommodation……he was still rather insistent on me paying for the privilege……I had a few coins of various currencies to give him…….none were local or acceptable so he wasn't too happy.
I walked the short distance into the pedestrian only streets of Mostar and found the Tourist Information staff who helped with directions to Cardak Pension. As I made my way to the pension, throughout the narrow, slippery cobbled streets, lined with shops and restaurants, and filled with tourists I wondered how I would be getting my wide and heavy bike there.
Once I had confirmed availability and accommodation at Cardak Pension the host offered to help guide me back through town on my motorbike…..I gingerly followed my host back to the pension, being careful to avoid the tourists wandering the streets, slipping on the smooth cobbles and the steep ups and downs of the centre of Mostar. At one point along the way the benches and menu boards of one of the restaurants needed to be pushed in as far as possible to allow me to squeeze past.
Once checked-in and out of the bike suit I was ready to have a look around Mostar.
Mostar
Following the unrest in Mostar during 1992-1993 (a result of Bosnia and Herzegovina declaring independence from Yugoslavia) much of the centre of the old town was devastated by the fighting. On the 9th November 1993 Stari Most, which had been standing for 427 years, was destroyed by Bosnian Croat forces. The restored bridge, constructed using the traditional techniques, reopened 23rd July 2004.
Stari Most
Stari Most
The bridge is impressive and it is a popular tourist attraction due to the local bridge divers. The view from on the bridge, down to the water below, is deceptive. It is not until you go down to the banks of the Neretva River and look up to the bridge above that you get a feeling for the significance of the height above the river. The jump from the bridge to the water varies depending upon the flow in the river and I was advised that the distance was around 25-26m at the time I was there. Despite that being 2.5x higher than a 10m diving board I couldn't help thinking about jumping off…….
Stari Most - 25+m above the water.
I spoke to one of the divers who advised that injuries are common amongst the inexperienced jumpers. Apparently a young Australian had decided to give it a go earlier in the day and had either dislocated his shoulder and/or broken his upper arm……obviously not a good result.
There are several stories regarding the injuries, death and disappearance of tourists who have jumped from the bridge. Dislocations and broken limbs are the most common. I couldn't stop thinking about jumping though.
I spoke to my pension hosts who were clearly opposed to the idea of jumping and strongly suggested not jumping. Some locals believe you are not a "local man" if haven't jumped - my host didn't believe that.
Mostar
Mostar - 13th July
I awoke to a beautiful and quiet day in Mostar. I had breakfast nearby whilst watching unpleasant waste being drained into the small stream from one of the opposite accommodations/restaurants. The streams were carrying quite a bit of garbage downstream to the main river just below the amazing Stari Most - the Old Bridge.
It seems that although Mostar relies on its attractive location and beautifully restored and maintained buildings they haven't quite caught up with the idea that fouling their attractions with garbage may upset and discourage tourists and destroy much of what they have.
Mostar streams carry too much of Mostar's waste.
Mostar buildings drain into the streams.
Most of Mostar is fairly relaxed in the morning with the streets remaining quiet until mid-morning. Around 10:30 the first of the day's local Mostar Diving Club divers takes his morning wake-up dive. Like many of the Club divers he will dive from the bridge at least once every day.
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence)
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence - sorry I missed the splash)
After the dive, which is a fairly lengthy process of psyching up and collecting cash, I headed around Mostar to see more of the town and the damage that remains after the fighting in the early 90's.
Mostar - many buildings are damaged and vacant
Mostar - other buildings are damaged and occupied
Mostar - other buildings are partly constructed and stopped
Mostar - while some buildings have had amazing restorations completed.
Franz Blazek's Gymnasium (1902 - restored 2004)
Mostar Gymnasium forecourt.
Mostar - wall art.
Mostar - still some work to be done.
I stopped for lunch at one of the many cafes/restaurants overlooking the bridge and the river which was rather pleasant (except I almost cracked a front tooth on a stone in the food).
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence)
Mostar Dive Club Diver (sequence - with splash)
From below the height of the bridge is more apparent.
I swam in the river below the old bridge but always made sure I was not ingesting the water and was out of the main river before I reached the outlet of the small stream (drain) from the town above. The water is quite cool and the flow in the river is rather strong. I had heard of a tourist who had foolishly jumped in when the water level was above the high-water mark you can see on the sides of the bridge due to the post winter meltwater - he was never seen again.
I enjoyed the swim and although I continued to entertain the idea in my head of jumping from the bridge I had come to the conclusion that I would not be jumping. I had been thinking about jumping since arriving in Mostar and the stories of injury were constantly nagging me. I was well aware of the impact even a small injury could have on my plans and ability to ride my motorbike for a few more months. Even a sprained ankle would have had a major impact day in day out.
Perhaps if I wasn't on my bike I would have jumped. Perhaps……
Mostar is a popular tourist attraction and once the heat of the day drops many people come out at night to enjoy food, drink and some seriously loud music.
One bar is within the caves dug out during the conflict and
can be accessed by one of the remaining tunnels
The streets were packed.
Some of the bars and locations are so popular that the streets and footpaths are impassable due to the crowds. There are a few locations with DJ's pumping out music from both sides of the river across and over the city centre. There are small bars with live music and other locations where the DJ's are hidden within the small courtyards through narrow lanes.
The music would continue well after was asleep. Tomorrow would be my second attempt at stopping in Croatia.
Sveti Stefan - Bay of Kotor - Herceg Novi - 11th July
After packing up at Hotel Romanov it was time to farewell Sveti Stefan which I had become rather comfortable with. I enjoyed Sveti Stefan for its diversity in visitors, food and accommodation and its quiet separation from som eof the much busier nearby locations.
Although I could have pushed on for the day and left Montenegro behind me I had decided another night on the coast just short of the Croatian border would be a better idea. I planned to ride around the Bay of Kotor to Herceg Novi enjoying the sights along the way.
One of the many seaside villages on the shore of the Bay of Kotor (perhaps Lepetane)
The Bay of Kotor is a wonderful and popular location adjacent to the Mediterranean. The steep mountains surrounding the bay create a wonderful backdrop and also a narrow winding road around the shore.
There are several settlements on the narrow strip where the mountains meet the sea.
The major tourist port town of Kotor
is the destination for many cruise ship travellers…..making it very busy
The ancient Ventian influenced wall for Kotor (with moat)
After a rather quick stop amongst the throngs of tourists in Kotor I continued onwards looking for a quieter and more relaxed spot to stop for lunch. A short ride later I was confirming with security that motorcycles could enter Perast on the edge of the Bay of Kotor despite the ban on all but resident's vehicles.
The natural island off Perast - Ostrvo Sveti Dorde
Island of St George (St George Benedictine Monastery)
A good spot for lunch.
I found a wonderful little restaurant with a fabulous view over the water and a densely shaded outdoor area and a light breeze. Although it was quite warm I was content to remove the jacket and boots to try and cool down without going through the lengthy process required for a swim. I enjoyed a tasty lunch of seafood and salad.
I had parked near two other bikes but could not see anyone at the restaurant who looked like they might be riding…….
When I was getting ready to leave the owners of the other bikes arrived to depart also. Both were wearing sleeveless tops, shorts and thongs and had been for a swim. They changed into their motorbike gear for their short afternoon ride - they put on sneakers!
We briefly discussed the difference in our outfits and agreed that since I was riding almost every day for what could end up being long distances I was doing the right thing wearing a full suit……they had ridden the 300+ km from Split earlier wearing sleeveless tops, jeans and sneakers and were debating if they would do the return leg in their shorts.
The man-made island off Perast - Gospa od Skrpjela
Our Lady of the Rocks (Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of the Rocks)
Wonderful views from Perast over the Bay of Kotor
The bayside village of Perast
Since the two other riders I had met after lunch were heading in the same direction way we all rode off together. After a brief time riding together we arrived at Herceg Novi and I peeled off while they headed onwards towards Croatia.
I arrived in Herceg Novi in the afternoon and was looking forward to a relaxing afternoon stroll along the water. After checking in to the pre-booked Hotel Novi (just in front of a bus load of Turkish students on a European tour) I was ready to cool down in the air-conditioning of the hotel.
Later in the afternoon and after a lengthy walk along the Herceg Novi promenade I decided it was time to relax in a small bar beside the water's edge. The bar seemed popular, whilst remaining relaxed and easygoing. I had a chair, with a table and a few spare chairs to myself and most people were apprehensive about asking for the chairs or to join me despite the crowd.
After a while there was a rush on my table and chairs with two separate groups of people willing to ask the question. One of the groups was from Finland and they were quite happy to join me and share the table. At the same time as I offered my table others in their group had secured a much larger area with room for all of us so I was invited over.
The Finnish Group
Although most in the group were from Finland some were from nearby and were helping them with accommodation and travelling through Croatia, Montenegro and Greece. It was wonderful to meet some fellow travellers who were friendly and good fun. We had a pretty good chat about our travels and our 'local customs' which resulted in many laughs. We debated the appropriateness of the terms "dude" and "mate" and if there might be a similar and typical Finnish alternative - it seems it is not that simple.
We discussed my plans and I was provided with several recommendations to include for my route ahead. Ideas included: Mauria Pass, Stelvio Pass, Marmolada Mountain (Dolomites), Sella Pass, Arabba (Livinallongo del Col di Lana) and Tre Cime di Laverdo (Dolomites).
The Finnish Group
Part of the group had been to Bosnia and Herzegovina in the previous few days and recommended accommodation close to the Mostar Bridge (Cardak Pension). It was wonderful to have a friendly recommendation for accommodation - although I was not sure how soon I would be getting to Mostar at that stage.
Thanks Emilia, Petra, Burkhard, Thomas and Janttu
(Since I am typing after concluding my ride I can confirm that I only managed the Stelvio Pass - it is clear I will need to get back again another day.)
Leaving Zabljak - Durmitor Mountain - Pivsko Jezera - Sveti Stefan - 10th July
Although the Tourist Information staff had been rather interested in me taking the 'scenic' gravel road I decided it was a long enough day ahead to get back to Sveti Stefan. Instead of the longer and slower scenic route I decided headed over the top of the Durmitor National Park which I was sure would be well and truly scenic and slow enough for me.
Approaching Durmitor National Park from Zabljak
Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park
It was a wonderful ride up into the Durmitor National Park. The scenery was amazing, the roads were fabulous and traffic was rare. Although it was a rather warm day in the Durmitor National Park in the middle of summer under crystal clear blue skies as a snow lover I wondered what it would be like to be back here in the winter with the snow covering the rocks and grasses of the hillsides.
Durmitor National Park - down the other side
Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park - Basketball Court
Durmitor National Park - Basketball Court
After levelling out of the mountains I passed through the grazing and pasture land on the plateau above Pivsko Jezero (Piva Lake..?). The long grass was in the process of being cut and readied for storage - most of the process was being undertaken by hand.
Grass cutting near Trsa
Grass cutting near Trsa
Grass cutting near Trsa
Pivsko Jezero - Piva Lake
Pivsko Jezero - Piva Lake
Pivsko Jezero - Slightly scary tunnels
One the way down the steep hillside to Pivsko Jezero (Piva Lake) the road takes some tight turns and passes through some very roughly made tunnels. Many of the tunnels have very poor sight lines, gravel and potholed surfaces and the last tunnel exits almost directly into the path of the passing traffic on the main road. A bit of a surprise.
Pivsko Jezero
Pivsko Jezero
Pivsko Jezero (Piva Lake) has such a wonderful colour both viewed from high above and from the bridge crossing much lower.
After leaving Pivsko Jezero (Piva Lake) there some wonderfully fast, sweeping and smooth roads heading back towards Podgorica. I was enjoying the flowing riding for quite a while before an uncharacteristically tight corner required me throw out the main and supplementary anchors - the sight of a guard rail and a rather nasty drop got my attention. Shortly thereafter I was also reminded of the importance of paying attention to erratic drivers who, while I was waving to a group of fellow motorcyclists, decided to slam on their brakes and pull off the road requiring the car in front of me to almost stop dead. I am sure the other motorcyclists sighed a little in relief with me.
Podgorica - a little quiet.
It was mid-afternoon when I arrived in Montenegro's capital Podgorica. Since I had barely stopped the previous pass through I had decided I would stop for a late lunch here to try and see a little more of the city and see what it was like…………...
Podgorica - a little quiet.
Although I managed to find somewhere that was open I was not inspired by the service or choice for a cafe in the nation's capital city centre. Admittedly it was close to 4 pm on a hot summer's Tuesday but I doubt it would be this quiet in Canberra. I had some lunch and decided I would need another visit to Podgorica to form a more balanced opinion of the burgeoning capital city.
View back to the interior of Montenegro
View of the mountain range between the coast and interior of Montenegro
Near Zukovica
After getting back to the Mediterranean coast I was soon back into the Sveti Stefan region. I had enjoyed staying in Sveti Stefan and thought I would try my luck at some of the other wonderful locations nearby.
I continued onwards through Budva and down to the beachside location of Hotel Poseidon……it looked very busy but I was hopeful that there might be room for one more….no luck.
I headed back and tried the Tourist and Accommodation booth in Przno……limited choice and availability and they seemed much less professional than the team in Sveti Stefan.
Back in Sveti Stefan the team in the Tourist and Accommodation shopfront were able to offer me several options. I decided after my previous stay I would go for a higher quality option. A short time later I was booked into the Romanov Hotel which although on the water's edge, was in hindsight, a little overpriced.
Sveti Stefan - Romanov Hotel
It had been a fairly long and hot day so I got out of the bike gear and found something more suited to a swim and a relax as the sun set. I took the stairs down to the Romanov Hotels section of beach, found myself a comfy seat and enjoyed a couple of beers.
Sveti Stefan - Hotel Romanov
Sveti Stefan - Hotel Romanov
The afternoon/early evening weather back on the coast was great and I enjoyed a refreshing swim as the sun set in the distance with a fabulous view of Aman Sveti Stefan and the luxury yacht moored nearby.
It is always a pleasure to have a relaxing swim after a fairly long and hot day on the motorcycle.
Sunsets are wonderful at Sveti Stefan
Sunsets are wonderful at Sveti Stefan
The view from Hotel Romanov.
Regrettably I stayed in for dinner at one of Hotel Romanov's restaurants. I had enjoyed several wonderful dinners in Sveti Stefan on my earlier stay and in hindsight I should have returned to them for one last enjoyable dinner in Sveti Stefan.
Black Lake (Crno Jezero) - 9th July
Zabljak Patterns
Zabljak is a small town in the Durmitor National Park region and is not far from Black Lake (Crno Jezero) so today was a very relaxed and easy day. The morning consisted of a relatively short stroll around the small township to get a better feel for where I was and to imagine what it might be like during the winter months, since Zabljak is a popular skiing destination.
Some new developments are being constructed and I would suggest it is about time. Most of the existing larger winter accommodation is very run-down and appears to be in need of significant renovation and updating or demolition and replacement.
The 'outskirts' of Zabljak
View towards Mount Durmitor and Black Lake (Crno Jezero) from Zabljak
After the morning stroll and a relaxing lunch I headed off on the bike the short distance to Black Lake.
Black Lake is set within a wonderful forest as part of the National Park and is a popular location for both leisurely and active recreation.
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
There is an extensive pathway network surrounding the lake and within the forest that many people were taking advantage of. Although I didn't venture into the water I imagine it was rather cool for those who did.
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
I decided I would take a walk around the lake and enjoy the changing views. I followed one of the paths to an elevated vantage point where people would jump into the lake below. After a little climbing further up the steep side of the lake I hoped to rejoin the path above…….unfortunately the previously obvious path had vanished an I was left with faint indications that others had walked this way before me.
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
I stumbled through the forest in the direction I wanted to go certain that eventually I would meet the path again. It wasn't too long before I was back on the well worn and obvious lakeside pathway heading in the right direction.
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
Black Lake (Crno Jezero)
It was a very pleasant day amongst the Durmitor Mountains near Zabljak and Judy and Leo had made a wonderful recommendation regarding the Durmitor National Park region.
On the way back through town I checked in at the Tourist Information Centre to try and get some local knowledge on a route option I was interested in to go back towards Sveti Stefan. An alternative route had been suggested due to its spectacular scenery and relatively easy going dirt road down through the valley. The Tourist Info staff were rather helpful, but the idea of somewhere between 60 - 80km of steep gravel road as part of a 280km+ day sounded a little risky.
Another tasty dinner and relaxing evening in MB Hotel, Zabljak finished off the day.
Sveti Stefan - Tara River Canyon - Zabljak - 8th July
After a few days in Sveti Stefan, relaxing, swimming and some local riding I had decided it was time to head off for the interior of Montenegro for some of the beautiful mountain scenery. Fellow motorcycle travellers, Judy and Leo (forever family friends), had suggested Durmitor National Park as a "must see" from one of their previous rides.
Out of Sveti Stefan I was soon crossing the northern end of Lake Shkoder/Skadar on a rather hot Montenegrin day. Views to the south were back to Albania and Shkodra where I had been earlier. At the time I was hopeful of a beautiful, quick and convenient spot to stop to have a swim…..not a good sign considering I had barely begun my day riding.
Lake Shkoder
Shortly after passing Lake Shkoder I was entering Montenegro's capital, Podgorica and needed to keep moving, leaving Podgorica for another day. On the quick run through it is noticeable that significant recent development has taken place and more development is proposed for the future.
Soon after leaving the outskirts of Podgorica I was riding through the Moraca River Canyon which was enjoyable and attractive. Again, I was keeping my eyes peeled for an easily accessed stop-off for a refreshing swim in the clear waters of the Moraca River.
Moraca River Canyon
Unfortunately no stops for a swim along the way with the road being too high and too far from the river most of the time. I continued on in the heat of the day and stopped to fill up the CamelBak, grab a Coke and enjoy a refreshing ice cream.
Moraca River Canyon
The Moraca River Canyon cuts along the mountainside above the river with wonderful twists and turns. Although a wonderful road the enjoyment can be regularly postponed by overloaded vans and trucks slowly making their way while spewing smoke from their exhausts. Despite the acceleration I had on-hand, the lack of visibility around bends, the blind tunnels and my care kept me behind some trucks for what seemed too long. Once in front of the trucks though, I often had lengthy stretches of road almost to myself.
Moraca River Canyon
After coming to the end of the Moraca River there was a brief stretch of more open riding through a wider valley before entering the Tara River CanyonTara River Canyon.
The more open river valley.
Similar too the ride through the Moraca River Canyon the ride along the Tara River was extremely enjoyable. The views, when they were stolen, of the river below and the surrounding mountains were wonderful. The road was generally very smooth and flowing and it was great to link several turns together before stopping to take a photo of another wonderful scene.
Tara River Canyon
At times the road rises above the river and offers much more expansive views out to some of the wider sections of the valley with scattered farms on the valley floor. The brief sections of road along the higher elevations soon pass dropping back down into the narrow river valley.
Tara River Canyon
Back into the narrow river valley the twisty roads returns and the excitement increases. The ride low in the valley, in the shadow of the hills, was very enjoyable. Glad I was here and riding my bike.
Tara River Canyon
Tara River Canyon
Once high above the Tara River again the road meets the Durdevica Tara Bridge. The bridge is remarkably high above the river and was at the time of its completion the biggest concrete bridge in Europe. I had heard rumours of being able to bungy jump from the bridge though there was no sign of any bungy jumping at the time I was there.
Durdevica Tara Bridge
There were a few restaurants/cafes overlooking the bridge and they seemed to be a popular spot to stop for a few other motorcyclists and several cars. Below the bridge and alongside the river there were a couple of options for camping or cabins with the touts guaranteeing fabulous traditionally local food.
Tara River Canyon
I was tempted by the offers of the accommodation and food on the banks of the Tara River, however, I was keen to get to Zabljak so that I was close to a few other attractions located within Durmitor National Park.
Tara River Canyon
I left the Durdevica Tara Bridge behind and headed the short distance to the small town of Zabljak.
Durdevica Tara Bridge
On my way into Zabljak I noticed several options for accommodations ranging from small cabins to larger hotels. I had done some research and read some reviews in advance and most were not complimentary of the larger hotels. When passing by it was easy to see why one, or two, of the hotels had received poor reviews. They looked rather run-down from the exterior and their doors looked closed - it seems they are open for the skiers in the winter.
Once into the centre of Zabljak I was able to seek out some suitable, and open, accommodation. I ended up in a small hotel (MB Hotel) that was full, although it had additional rooms in a nearby house. I was happy to have a centrally located, comfortable room close to the small hotel that had a reputation for quite good mountain food.
Following my rather expensive lamb meal the night before at Aman Sveti Stefan I decided it would be a perfect time to sample the more local and traditional lamb from up in the mountains. The lamb was slow cooked in a mixed vegetable stew and had a wonderful flavour, was tender and simply fell from the bone. It was a stark contrast from the exclusive hotel meal in both flavour, tenderness and of course price.
Welcome to the mountains.