I started the day early with a very quick breakfast in the hotel before heading out, package in hand, to the Greek Customs in Patras.
The first man duly filled in the necessary paperwork in Greek and assured me that there was nothing to worry about with what he was writing - please sign here. Next stop, a couple of offices down was another man in customs who needed to inspect the contents and get a signature and a stamp, and write something that somebody, somewhere, might be interested in on the paperwork.
After this step it seemed a little odd that I needed to go back to the post office for them to also inspect and copy the paperwork and then return to customs. I was later told, by the post office, that customs should have sealed and stamped the box, which would have meant that they would not have seen what was inside…..
When I returned to the first man in customs he asked why the box wasn't sealed and suggested that I could have put something else in……I confirmed that I could have……but I was having enough trouble fitting what I already wanted in the box, and was sick and tired of going back and forward between customs and the post office that quite simply I wasn't interested in trying to put anything else in. So he finished his step.
I taped up the box with some customs paperwork inside in case Australian customs were interested in looking. I returned to the post office who were now surprised that it was taped and that there was still not any customs tape or stamp or paperwork for them………..I told them a copy was inside and that customs were happy…..
I filled in my address details, paid the money and by that point was happy to leave it in the lap of the gods to see if it arrived in Australia safe and unpacked. The box has since arrived unopened - so it was a lot of hassle to send a few clothes back home to be washed…..
I returned to Maison Grecque to refresh and re-pack for departure - this time I would be moving on.
I departed Maison Grecque and decided I would pop in to visit the Motoraid Team on my way out of town. Once again the shop was busy with in-store customers, telephone and internet enquiries. It was great to briefly catch the team again and I managed a few more minutes talking with Giannis about a little more of Greece on my way to Albania and a quick recap on some of the Albania route ideas we discussed previously. Giannis also helped me out with what has proven to be a very necessary Albania Map - thank you.
It was time to make some progress since it was now the middle of the day and the temperature was nice and warm.
On my way out of town I stopped on the Rio-Antirrio (Charilaos Trikoupis) Bridge since I hadn't snapped a decent picture on the way into town the first time and there wasn't much traffic and the wind wasn't howling either.
Rio-Antirrio (Charilaos Trikoupis) Bridge
Rio-Antirrio (Charilaos Trikoupis) Bridge
Rio-Antirrio (Charilaos Trikoupis) Bridge
After crossing the bridge it wasn't long before I was running along the western side of Greece and what appear to be with massive salt collection farms and/or very slow land reclamation. The water is very shallow in the Mesolonghi Lagoon and a large area has been edged off to be used to collect salt. At the northern end of this area a low and narrow bridge connects to Aitoliko which lies on a low and small island in a channel between two lagoons (Mesolonghi and Aitolikon Lagoons).
Onto the island of Aitoliko
Almost looks like it could be Australia - Euclaypts and Casuarinas by the water.
Since I had been sweating significantly for the past few hours I restocked on water and moved on looking for lunch. I arrived in Astakos a little further along the road and stopped by the water and enjoyed a quick bite before continuing on. Astakos was a rather attractive, small seaside location with several sailing boats moored along the protected promenade inside the small port. There was also a popular beach extending beyond the wall of the port.
The west coast of Greece is dotted with many, many islands along this stretch leading towards Lefkada. It was reassuring that so many of the islands appear to be untouched despite ranging in size and shape.
Some of the island on the way to Lefkada
I had been recommended the upcoming stretch of road by my friends in at Motoraid. They thought it would barely have another car on it, although there may be some animals getting in the way, and it was smooth and flowing along the coastline. Based on their recommendation I stuck on the GoPro to see what I could capture:
Here's a video along the way ending in Palairos.
It was one of the best stretches of road I had ridden on the trip for a while - it is always great to have recommendations from local riders. Thanks Giannis.
After a few short detours through some back streets of little villages the beautiful coastal road shrunk dramatically in size and was reduced in quality as it wound up and over the headland. Again the road opened up to be a clear and obvious major route before dropping down again to being a rural backroad. I checked the GPS and map several times - this was the road to be on.
The road was mostly OK and the scenery was fabulous, and as warned there were herds of animals to pass through on the way.
Herds of animals could be just over the crest…
The Plagia valley farmland - Lefkada in the background
After the run through the mountains and farmland behind the coast I dropped down and across the valley to the low causeway that links Lefkada to the mainland. I followed the GPS and road signs to the southern end of Lefkada to see if I could find somewhere comfortable and relaxed to stay - I was hopeful of a lush camp ground with green grass, shade trees, water at the doorstep, WiFi etc etc…
I arrived at Vassiliki Bay and realised that the area was very quiet and that many places may not be open. I did a lap or two on the bike to see what I could see. I checked the campground and decided against it since it was hidden from the water behind some rather unsightly buildings and WiFi???. I went back to the Ponti end of the bay and looked hopefully at the accommodation lining the streets. I headed up a lane behind the front row of buildings and noticed a women seemingly ready to help.
Although the discussion was a little difficult, with a mobile phone call to the English speaker, and a look at the room I agreed to stay in Altina Apartments. I was well and truly ready to get out of the bike gear and into something a little more comfortable.
A room with a view - Altina Apartments, Ponti
I was soon downstairs and across to the road to the water's edge ready for a swim. Vassiliki Bay is popular with windsurfers for a reason….it is windy almost every single day. Despite the wind the water is a beautiful temperature and the water in the bay is very clear.
With the sheer number of windsurfers out in the bay, and so many close to shore, it was a little difficult to find somewhere 'safe' to swim. I decided if I used some of the moored dinghies as as protection I would be OK. The swim was a great way to wash off the hot day.
After the swim it was soon time to enjoy an ice cold beer, poured into a frozen glass. I was happy to be beside the seaside.
The view from the table in the restaurant.
After checking the fresh seafood and chatting with the chef I had a wonderfully fresh and tasty calamari dinner. The temperature was great for sitting out by the sea and relaxing.
I hadn't planned on staying long in Vassiliki Bay - we'll see.