I enjoyed a relaxed breakfast at Dellas Boutique Hotel while surfing the net for places to stay, route options and sights to see (I often wonder what a trip similar to this would be like without the internet now or in the past…).
I decided I would head into Vikos Gorge, giving me an opportunity to pass through some of the Zagoria Villages.
Leaving Dellas Boutique Hotel
The owner at Dellas Boutique Hotel previously owned a BMW and recommended a short side-trip on my way back to the major highway through a couple of small villages after Panagia, through the Katara Pass, then coming out at Metsovo. I found the turn-off on the way and decided I would accept the NO ENTRY signs as being legitimate - I had spent a couple of hours riding around in Turkey hoping to get around No Entry signs so I wasn't going to push my luck. I imagine the No Entry was a result of the new highway roadworks.
I was soon on the fast freeway and exiting near Lake Ioannina, to skirt around before heading into the Zagoria Villages.
Lake Ioannina
I stopped to refresh a little a take a couple of pictures.
Tripod Timer Close-up of Motorbike - Amazing!
Intended Tripod Shot - Action Stance?
I was not decided on where to stay, or what to see, within the Vikos Gorge. The Lonely Planet had some information and was only a starting point. I was not intending to stay and hike for days throughout the Gorge so I wanted a good ride, some comfortable accommodation, good food and a good sleep.
I had read of Monodendri in the Lonely Planet so headed there. I pulled into town and noticed it was all very quiet. I parked the bike in front of one of the recommended and possible hotels and places to eat…..which looked very, very quiet. I walked up the hill to next door and found a seat on the verandah overlooking part of the town and the valley. During my meal a Jewish couple arrived and sat down for their lunch. As I was about to depart they asked where I was from and where I was going and generally about my travels.
As we talked they recommended going to Papingo since it was much better than Monodendri due to its setting higher up in the mountains, the village, the rivers along the way and below the village and the accommodation options. I thanked them for their advice and recommendations (which are always welcome) and headed off towards Papingo.
I was very low on cash and knew that I would be needing some before I got to Papingo so headed into Kalpaki which had the nearest cash machine. I was thoroughly enjoying the relatively flat, smooth and sweeping bends through the countryside since they didn't put too much pressure on my hands and wrists or the brakes and suspension until…….I rounded a bend, well leaned over, and the rear tyre momentarily slid on the strip of loose gravel running through the apex of the corner. I instinctively put out my left foot, which was already very close to the road (it seems) and it quickly slammed back into the bottle holder attached to the pannier. It was all so very quick and suddenly painful.
I was not looking forward to getting off the bike…..or taking off my boot.
When I got of the bike I was a little tentative until I put weight on my foot and took a few steps. All seemed OK. The boot would come off later.
Vikos Gorge
Vikos Gorge is spectacular and holds the Guinness Book of World Records Deepest Gorge title (based some odd calculation of the ratio of width to depth or something….) - not sure how it compares to the gorge in Jebal Akhdar, near Jebal Shams, in Oman. Regardless it is a rather impressive sight.
Vikos Gorge - Panorama
From the edge of the gorge you drop down through some small villages to the Voidomatis River running through the bottom of the gorge. It had been another hot day and once again I was torn between my desire to get all of my gear completely wet to cool down and ride on and the knowledge that to get changed into swimmers to take a quick dip in the rather cold water would perhaps be more hassle than it is worth. I chose to enjoy the scene from the shore, take a few photos and ride on.
Vikos Gorge - The water has such an amazing colour.
Vikos Gorge
Shortly after the pause at the river's edge I was on the rather steep and twisty road up the hill and out the other side of the gorge.
Twisty Road - Vikos Gorge
After the steep and twisty road coming out of the valley it was a fairly short ride into the village of Papingo, which is almost the end of the road. After my conversation at lunch regarding how beautiful Papingo was, and the options for accommodation, I rode into town hopeful of finding something comfortable and quickly.
Papingo is very small and was very quiet and I was very cautious on the stony streets and didn't really want to stop unless I was sure there was something to stop for. As a result I continued to the end of town (a few hundred metres maximum) where there were two accommodation options and a relatively flat area with room to turn around.
I entered the walled courtyard of the closest one (Archontiko Geki 1876) in search of someone to help me. A lady eventually appeared who understood what I was looking for and showed me a couple of rooms in the hotel. I asked if there were any rooms with views of the wonderful mountain ranges we were located within and she indicated that yes, there were, upstairs. Once upstairs I selected a room with views out of 3 sides within the rather old and well presented building.
After redressing the hot and heavy clothing situation I was ready to look around the small village, walk around and find somewhere for dinner.
I set off not expecting to go too far, so as I rounded each bend in the road promising the next would be my last I eventually found myself walking down a rocky path to one of the small river bridges the Vikos Gorge is known for. I was staying in Papingo and the bridge that I found crossed the river to Mikro Papingo (Papingo's smaller sibling) on the nearby hillside.
Papingo Bridge to Mikro Papingo
I paused for a little while to cool my sore (and thankfully not injured) feet in the fresh mountain stream. It was a beautiful spot, the water was wonderfully cool, the light was fading on the mountains above and it was time to get back up the hill, around the bends, for dinner.
Haircut? Maybe later.
On my way up the hill I saw that one of the neighbours seemed to have gone to Mikro Papingo to perhaps take his dog for a run and/or pick up his girlfriend on his R1200GS since she was on the back and the dog was being encouraged to run along with them.
I continued up the hill until a couple stopped and offered me a lift back into town. I climbed in the back of their small car and had enough time to find out they were from Athens, had come to Vikos Gorge to go hiking/climbing, they had been there before, and were interested in my travels - then I had to get out.
Thanks for the lift.
I had noticed Astra Traditional Inn on my way down the hill. If the food was as good as the view then it would be a good spot to stop.
Vergina (Eastern Greek) Beer with Trout to come.
I was the only customer and enjoyed my garden salad (from their garden) and trout (apparently caught fresh in the local rivers) and the view. All-in-all it was quiet pleasant.
Sun Fading on Vikos Gorge
I returned to Archontiko Geki and enjoyed the view of the fading sun on the peaks of Vikos Gorge before another well earned sleep.