Holiday La Marca to Venice / Murano / Burano / Torcello - 19th - 20th July

19th July - Holiday La Marca to Venice

I woke to find that the website upload had completed during my night's sleep. It was time for brekky.

At check-in I was advised that the included breakfast was "basic", "coffee and a croissant". Perhaps there was a special occasion because breakfast was a wonderful spread of cereals, fruits, pastries, yoghurt, savoury meats and cheeses and cappuccino. I enjoyed a slow breakfast because check-out was later and Venice was a relatively short ride.

Around 11:30 am I was packed up and loaded up and heading for Venice. It was a fairly slow ride in through several villages and heavy traffic. About an hour later I pulled into the multi storey car park where I would be leaving my bike for the 2 nights I would be in Venice. I considered taking two trips to carry my gear to the B&B and decided I might as well take it all in one go…..

As I was getting ready to leave my bike Thomas, from Spain, was also getting organised for a few hours of sightseeing in Venice. Based on the stickers on his bike he was rather well travelled also.

After I had strung my gear over my neck like a pack-horse I headed off for Alle Guglie B&B over the canals in the Venetian heat of July. I am sure I looked a little odd carting my gear to the hotel wearing my motorcycle suit while most tourists were in their shorts and lightweight shirts. I sweated my way to the B&B and arrived well and truly ready to dump my gear and get changed into something more comfortable. 

I pressed the doorbell - nobody home! I only waited a short time before Antonio appeared along the lane to let me in. A quick chat to sort out the 'rules of the house', a quick shower and I was changed and ready to start seeing a little of what Venice has to offer.

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A break for lunch was needed and I thought that by being off the beaten tourist paths I might find a small local establishment that would be pleasant and perhaps a little cheaper…….

I should have realised I was in Venice and bargains would be hard to find, wherever I tried. I was now spending Euro, and some of the more expensive ones too.

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Venice - one of the few trees!

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Venice - gondola.

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Venice - rare vegetation.

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Venice - graffiti!

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Venice

As is my preference, I avoided the high profile and heavily trafficked areas of Venice to see what many of the tourists may not see. I walked through quite alleys and lanes, through empty squares and alongside mirror-like canals. I looked out through vistas to other islands without another person or boat enjoying the same scene. This was the quiet side of Venice….

I knew it wouldn't last forever!

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Venice - a couple of tourists…..

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Venice - Piazzo San Marco (St Mark's Square)

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Venice - St Mark's Basilica

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Venice

After a dose of hectic tourist locations it was time for another break and some quieter canals, lanes, alleys and pathways.

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Venice - a little more vegetation.

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After a good afternoon of Venetian sights, sounds and walking it was time to head back to Alle Guglie B&B. I logged in to the in-house WiFi and proceeded toe get to work on this website. After a while it was time for dinner. I asked my host Antonio for ideas and suggestions for dinner and instead he offered to make me some simple pasta. We had a bowl of pasta and some red wine on his balcony. After dinner Antonio headed off to collect some more guests and I weighed up the options - go out on the town or go to bed. I was tired enough to choose the latter - bed time it was.

Murano - 20th July

After waking early I stayed comfortably in bed waiting for brekky. I had booked in 8:30 am thinking I would sleep through. Brekky was tasty and Antonio assisted with advice on water bus tickets and getting to/from Murano, Burano and Torcello (other islands close to Venice).

I purchased a 12hr water bus ticket and was ready for a long day visiting a few of the islands surrounding Venice. There was a little confusion waiting for the water bus, and the driver of one water bus that wouldn't take passengers advised that there was a limited strike on due to a wages and working conditions dispute and almost all boats were not going to Murano.

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Venice - water bus.

After a relatively quick change to a larger boat I was soon en route to Murano. Murano is renowned for its glass making and in particular lamp working (beads). Due to the transport strike there were very few people in Murano and it was easy to walk the small island looking for examples of the various glass making styles and techniques.

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Murano - glass glass making. 

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Murano - glass glass. 

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Murano - glass sculpture (perhaps Dale Chihuly?) in reds.

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Murano - glass sculpture (perhaps Dale Chihuly?) in blues.

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Murano - streetscapes.

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Murano was very interesting. There was a range of artisans making smaller quantities and individual pieces using traditional techniques, while there were also skilled craftsmen turning out set, after set, of glasses in front of hot furnaces and what may have been trainees turning out bucket loads of beads using modern and toxic methods. On the day I was there it was also very quiet, thanks to the transport strike.

Burano - 20th July

I continued onwards making the most of my 12 hour boat pass. I headed for the nearby Burano which is renowned for its lacework, colourful building facades and the leaning tower (campanile) on the Church of San Martino. 

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Burano - leaning tower of the Church of San Martino

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Burano - seemed to be washing day

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Burano - the colourful facades

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Burano - the leaning tower of the Church of San Martino

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Burano - lacework

Torcello - 20th July

After a good look around the small island community of Burano I headed to Torcello which is the longest continuously inhabited Venetian island and was traditionally the political and trading centre of the Venetian community. At its peak the island hosted a population of more than 10,000. Malaria, and clogged salt marshes, made Torcello much less attractive to live in than Murano, Burano and Venice. Today Torcello is lucky to have 20 people still living there while Venice has grown to accommodate over 263,000 people.

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Torcello - Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta 

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Torcello - gardens

After Torcello (it isn't very big and there isn't much to see) I headed back to Burano to catch another boat back to Venice.

Venice - 20th July

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Another boat.

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Venice

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Back on the island of Venice I queued up for a ticket and trip up to the top of the clock tower for elevated views over the city and island.

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Venice - as seen from the clock tower

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San Marco Square - as seen from the clock tower

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Thanks for the photo.

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San Marco Square - back down on the ground

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San Marco Square - Florian (est. 1720) with their orchestra 

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San Marco Square - Great spot to get ripped-off for a relaxing G&T

I decided to sit, relax and enjoy an afternoon drink in Piazza San Marco as the afternoon sun was fading off the square - I imagine it is one of the 'things to do'. I chose Caffe Florian (est. 1720 and perhaps the oldest continually serving coffee house) because it had a fabulous outlook and wonderful orchestra. I have since learned that they have an outpost in Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi.

As I checked their drinks menu (without prices) I assumed that there would be a price to match the location and the music. I ordered a G&T and decided to upgrade the G to Hendrick's to reminisce - one of my Australian mates who had worked with me in Abu Dhabi first introduced me to Hendrick's. Apart from the expected high price the only disappointment was that such a 'fancy' establishment refuses to serve a modern G&T in accordance with Hendrick's suggestion of cucumber instead of citrus (lemon or lime). Eventually a staff member appeared and after some discussion advised that Florian and the Manager don't "do" that, although he conceded Hendrick's recommendation to be expected and appropriate in such a venue as Florian's.

I still had a few more hours on my 12hr water bus pass and I hadn't been along the Grand Canal. It was time to keep moving and see what I could see.

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Louis Vuitton - Window Dressing

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Louis Vuitton - Window Dressing

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Venice - the bridges are popular for attaching padlocks symbolising everlasting love

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Venice - The Grand Canal

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Venice - The Grand Canal and Casino

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Scalzi (The Church of Santa Maria di Nazareth)

After a fairly long day of sightseeing I was ready for dinner and Alle Guglie B&B. Along the route back to the B&B I found a place for dinner. Disinterested staff and poor food, not to mention using my thong to hold up the table, made dinner all the more memorable.

Although it was getting a little late I decided to grab a couple of beers and work on this website before bed back at Alle Guglie B&B - considering I am still going on it mid 2013 perhaps a few more hours would have been time well spent……..

© Urban Fabric 2012