I was a little relaxed about departure from Ankara after dinner and a couple of beers the night before so I wasn't on the road until midday. It was not that exciting leaving Ankara with grey skies and the lightest rain possible threatening to turn the trip a little unpleasant. At times the light rain was unsure if it would turn to fog or vice versa. Although a little dull and unpleasant for part of the ride it was not enough to really get wet.
This was not a petrol stop on the way to Goreme...
It was a solid ride to Goreme and I arrived into town around 4pm excited by the landforms and landscape of the area - again I was happier out of the 'big smoke' on my motorbike.
Goreme is an amazing township located amongst the volcanic rock formations within the commonly named Cappadocia area of Central Anatolia. In recent times tourism has made it very popular for staying in cave houses, taking balloon flights and undertaking a range of tours and activities.
I had selected Castle Cave House for my stay based on some very impressive reviews. The staff may have been concerned about me arriving and only being interested in getting my room key to have a shower - I needed to explain that riding a motorbike close to 300km through cold and almost raining weather makes you feel that way.
It was obvious that I might be the only guest when they asked which room I would like….I looked at the dugout cave rooms and opted for one with a full-sized window, access to a wonderful terrace, lots of space, big and comfy bed and a decent bathroom.
Although not strictly a cave room the natural rock continues to crumble.
After I had freshened up it seemed that it was still not to early to plan my next few days with the hotel staff immediately. So I was booked in for the balloon flight the next day…I did ask during negotiations what the weather was like and which day might be best….anyway it was done.
After a long day and the early pick-up for the balloon flight it was a simple kebab and an early night.
15th April
With the recommendation of the hotel staff I had chosen Atmosfer Balloons for my flight over the Cappadocian landscape. After waking up several times throughout the night and being picked-up as arranged at 5:15am it was a little concerning to still be sitting around in the Atmosfer Balloons building well after sunrise and noticing things might not be OK.
A quick chat to the staff indicated winds were on the limit and if we do go up it will not be the full hour and there is no refund. To add to matters it sounds as though there might be a fair bit of scope to negotiate on prices (I had paid a premium despite the help of my hotel assistant and supposed hotel discount)……..I decided the chances of me getting up at 4am another day were slim - today was the day - I was already there.
Take-off - or more probably lift-off……
The ballon flight (my first) was an amazing experience. After a little bit of dragging along the ground, pulling and pushing from the ground crew we were rising up above the ground. With a few strong blasts on the burners we were rising higher and around the other balloon still tethered on the ground. We quickly rose, and rose some more to clear the ridges around us. Apart from the burners, which are quite hot and noisy, it is a smooth and quiet experience.
It is an amazing landscape and experience in a balloon.
As we drifted along, rising and falling with the temperature within the balloon, we saw landscape from above - the fields, the orchards and vineyards, the fox and the wild boar. The rock formations are remarkable and I can only imagine what some other flights, directed by the winds, over other parts of the region must be like. I imagine most, like me, would have liked to stay up much longer but after we crossed the river
After the river we would land also.
The landing was, in many ways, much more gentle than anticipated. The pilot controlled the air, in and out of the balloon, to ensure a rather gentle sliding stop while keeping the basked mostly upright. Although a little short of the 1hr it was a fabulous experience. A great way to start my first full day in Goreme.
I filled the remainder of what ended up being a long and eventful day by visiting the Goreme Open Air Museum, which is very interesting. There are many churches carved out inside the rocks, with many excellent frescoes remaining on the walls and ceilings, and remarkable cut rock architecture.
An example of the remaining frescoes (may not have been allowed to 'steal' this photograph.
I am admiring their work, and am a little concerned about the conditions they lived in.
Note the levels of detail they went to when carving the rock.
By the reports there is seems the structures within the Goreme Open Air Museum date from around the 10th, 11th and 12th Centuries and were created to allow 'secret' or protected worship and religion.
The 'Dark Church' above has one small window allowing the light in which has kept the colours in the (restored) frescoes vibrant.
I had a simple lunch and relaxed and read for a while - catching up on Michael Palin's New Europe, since it covers Turkey and in particular Cappadocia.
And finally, it was the day this website went live. I had been trying in Istanbul and Sile without success. Then, to my surprise, in the small Cave House Hotel nestled amongst the rocks of Goreme, in the geographical middle of Turkey it happened. I tried the connections again and they went through and then I hit the "Publish" button and it started to happen. It was such a relief to know my software worked and I could upload directly over the WiFi connection. I was quite happy.
To celebrate I treated myself to a special clay pot kebab and some of the region's Okuzgozu red wine. Going all out in such style set me back 60TL.
It was a long but obviously eventful and successful day.
16th April
After the previous couple of days involving riding from Ankara, going up in a balloon, seeing the local open air museum and publishing a website I was happy to take this Monday easy so I slept in.
When I was up and about I looked around Goreme quite superficially and decided I would try the Hammam (Turkish Bath) following the recommendation of the hotel staff. It was definitely and experience worth trying, even if it may not have been as traditional and authentic as some others. After the past few days the relaxation was necessary.
It took me a little while to understand the joke…………..
17 April 2012 - Goreme Green Tour
After my rest day I was booked in for lengthy tour around Cappadocia known as the 'Green Tour'. This tour is designed to give you a fairly comprehensive overview of the Cappadocian region and the various ways in which people lived and practiced their religion.
When I awoke I looked out from my terrace to see the sky above Goreme filled with balloons. Obviously the weather conditions were perfect for a Goreme balloon ride and the balloon pilots were making the most of it by dropping right down above the cave houses of Goreme.
Balloons were dropping right down into the Goreme Village
The bus tour from Goreme starts off above the village and looks down over the village and the surrounding landscape.
The start of the Green Tour - the cappuccino I almost got was going to be out of a packet.
Following the brief stop to enjoy the panorama over Goreme we continued on the to the underground city of Derinkuyu. Derinkuyu is the largest underground city in Turkey and extends to more that 65m below the surface. It is suggested that the underground city could accommodate up to 50,000 people over 11 levels. They also carved stones that could be rolled across tunnels to protect those inside from attackers. There are many cities of this type in the region, with Derinkuyu being the largest.
The flash obviously gives a false impression of how dark it is even with the lights.
Some of the carved rocks were a little more architectural than purely functional.
Amazing to learn people hid and lived for months so far below the ground.
Below the ground within Derinkuyu the temperature is supposed to be quite stable year round. At around 11deg.C it is quite cool all the time, and if you are living in darkness or a smoky dim light I can not imagine how unpleasant it must have been outside to be forced below ground like the people were.
It is a wonderful landscape throughout the Cappadocia with several volcanoes featuring. Many times in the distance we were able to view the still snow covered peaks.
The snow will melt off completely soon.
After leaving Derinkuyu we had a quick detour to a Nar Lake, a thermal lake on our way to Ihlara Valley. The water is too hot to swim in at around 60deg.C. Arriving at the top of the gorge forming Ihlara Valley we took the steps down to where there are several Byzantine dwellings and churches with painted frescoes carved out of the rock. It may well have been one of the first places where Christians escaped to from Roman soldiers.
Ihlara Valley below me.
Fresco within Agacalti Church, Ihlara Valley.
It seemed as though we needed to rush once we left the church with the guide advising that he would be maintaining a steady pace to our lunch stop. The group tried to keep up and we all made our stop for lunch after the guide had to stop, wait and count us all several times.
Tandirci Restoran (sic) and Camping for lunch.
Tandirci Restauran was situated right on the Melendiz River bank and on small islands constructed within the stream. I suppose they are prepared to remove all of their tables and chairs from time to time and rebuild after floods. It was a pleasant break speaking with some of the Korean and Chinese from the group.
Following lunch we visited Selime Monastery. Selime Monastery is a collection of carved cathedrals that are largest in Cappadocia.
The carved rock is rather impressive.
So I admired it from the other side of the room.
After lunch we headed back to Uchisar to visit one of the semi-precious stones workshops and salesrooms. It was interesting to see a man quickly carve an egg shape out of stone and allow us to touch it while still hot before giving it to one of the boys in our group. It was also interesting to see fake examples of various semi-precious stones which are apparently quite common in some of the less reputable stores throughout the region and in the tourist areas.
The man polishing the carved egg shaped rock.
Across the road from the jewellery market we had our last look over the panorama of Cappadocia to Pigeon Valley. Many of the rocks have been carved out to house pigeons whose droppings are used to fertilise the crops and plantations.
Almost the end of the day-trip at Pigeon Valley
The Green Tour was a fabulous experience showing much of what Cappadocia has to offer.
When I was out looking for something for dinner I noticed a BMW K1100LT parked outside a restaurant. I met the rider (Herve Nobel) who is spending 6 weeks riding from France through Turkey to Astrakhan (Russia) then back across to France. He described a dreadful day he had experienced in the pouring rain when the 200km he did that day took 10HOURS. He has offered me somewhere to stay in Paris after he returns there.
It was great to meet a fellow rider and I wish him all the best for his travels and I hope that he never has another 10hour day like he has already had.
Another good day in Cappadocia.
18 April 2012 - Goreme
Goreme was a good place to slow down a bit so Wednesday the 18th was a day of 'home duties' including washing, stitching (the lady staff member at the hotel insisted she stitch the button back on) and website.
In the afternoon I relaxed further and booked accommodation in Alanya.
It had been a pretty good stay in Goreme.