Since I hadn't pre-booked anywhere to stay in Thessaloniki and the Sithonian Peninsula seemed quite good in the Lonely Planet book and on Google Earth at some point I decided I wouldn't go directly to Thessaloniki. Instead I hoped I would find a lush campground, close to the water with good WiFi and excellent facilities somewhere towards the southern end of the Sithonian Peninsula.
I departed Kavala reasonably early and was looking forward to getting off the expensive 'freeway', filling-up completely with petrol, putting some air in the tyres (they had only really looked like needing a top-up in the past few days) and seeing what some of the smaller roads of Greece had to offer.
Shortly after leaving the service station I was impressed. The green fields, the forested hillsides, the undulating terrain and the good road surface had obvious potential for great riding. It looked like the Chalkidiki Region and the Sithonian Peninsula were going to be worth it for riding.
Chalkidiki - a good start.
As I headed off along the beautiful road I began to smile. This is what you hope for on a motorbike ride. Stretches of good bitumen, with great scenery and vegetation, that twists its way to your destination. After a good blast along the straight stretch the road soon started to wind its way up into the mountains.
Chalkidiki - got better
The sweeping bends were wonderfully predictable, car free and smooth. As they wound their way up into the forest the vegetation became much denser. When I saw a man and his van with what seemed to be his herd of pigs in the forest I wondered what they might be foraging for or if they might just be out to fatten-up. At first I regretted not slamming on the brakes to get a quick photo. As I rounded a few more bends I need not have worried when a herd of wild pigs/boars moved off the road in front of me into the forest at the side of the road. I parked the bike and got off to take a couple of pictures.
This little piggy went to…..
This big piggy went to…..
There were quite a few pigs in the herd and it was great to see them go into the forest, come out again and follow the leader back and forth across the road.
The road continued winding through wonderful forests before opening out into small villages and straighter roads. It was a great way to see some more of Greece.
(Video is under construction)
As I continued on I reached the Sithonian Peninsula Coast and I started to look out for 'suitable' campsites and places for late lunch. I pulled into a campground, cafe, hotel, beach bar venue to see if all bases could be ticked in the one place.
I had lunch - TICK.
Water looked fabulous.
Location next to sea was great - TICK
Weedy and rough campground was flooded and closed - FAIL
I moved on still hopeful that that I would find a campground that surpassed Ada Camping back on Cunda. The road was wonderful, passing sandy beaches and beautiful bays with rocky forests extending back away from the coastline.
Wonderful bays along the Sithonian Peninsula coastline.
I followed a few signs and went into a couple of campgrounds. Unfortunately it was not to be - none of the camping places seemed right for me at the time. I continued towards the southern most end of the peninsula and found a small town called Toroni.
Riding into Toroni I wondered if it was closed because it seemed almost to be a ghost town. There were 1 or 2 people sitting on a front porch and barely another car moving about town. I was almost out the other end of town when I was beckoned in by a couple of women on the verandah of Angelo's Garden. Angelo's Garden gives a wonderful impression from the street with its well maintained gardens and appearance so I enquired further.
I decided to stay and I was the only guest so I got a top floor room with a view down to Angelo's Garden and the sea beyond.
Angelo's Garden - Room with a great view.
Like many other places I had stayed at on my journey it seems as though they were getting ready for the upcoming season. It was great to be able to chill out in what was obviously a pretty relaxed and quiet place. They were located directly adjacent to the beach, had a small creek/pond next door and since the entire town was small they within walking distance of all the major attractions and shopping.
The weather started to come in the first night.
The creek pond next door had more turtles than I have ever seen.
The weather was a little unpleasant over the 3 nights, and some of the days, that I was there so it was a perfect opportunity to sort a few things out with bike and gear. I checked the cooking gear and tested the fuels - all OK. I gave my water filter a test since the tap water was a little murky after some heavy rain - OK (but I didn't drink it).
Water filter seems to work OK.
I also washed the bike and stuck on a few stickers of some companies whose products I have carried along for the ride.
Sponsorship offers accepted…..
I also helped Angelo out with some photos and emails for a couple of nearby holiday rooms/apartments that he needed to send off.
The first room.
The second room.
I also spent quite a bit of time working on this website with photos and blog entries etc. All in all it was a few good days relaxing in Angelo's Garden, getting a few things done and not worrying about too much at all.
I ate every meal there the entire time and always asked what they recommended and what was freshest. Apart from some overcooked pork everything was great - veal stew, moussaka, stuffed peppers and the best calamari I think I have ever had (which I had seen being prepared in a bucket earlier that day). The cooking was great.
In between all of the other pressing duties I wandered around Toroni a bit. What struck me was how empty it was yet how prepared for the crowds they were. Many cafes had their extra beachside seating areas all set-up, neat and tidy while other areas had their sun lounges out in readiness.
It makes you wonder what they do for the rest of the year while they wait.
Before I departed Toroni I wandered down to the castle ruins to take a closer look. Unfortunately the sign on the gate advised they were closed due to restoration works. I walked up the hill to look down towards the ruins and back towards Toroni.
Toroni Castle - the location is quite impressive.
It was a peaceful morning out in Toroni and my time there was soon to conclude.
I returned to Angelo's Garden to finish packing, loading the bike and paying the bill. Angelo, his mother and the cook were there to farewell me.
Angelo and his mother had been grieving the recent death of their sister/daughter and I think I had helped smooth out some of the rough times over the short stay I spent with them.
Angelo asked me to return in the future with a group of friends - I hope so.