4th May - Ada Camping
I had a fabulous night's sleep in the tent and woke up feeling pretty good for a pretty uneventful day at Ada Camping.
Out of the 3 of us camping I was the only one who seemed to 'need' breakfast. Although I joined Dominic and Francis for a coffee I added the host's breakfast offering. After breakfast I connected to the WiFi since it was time to update this website with photos and blog entries. I worked tirelessly until I had flattened the batteries on both iPad and MacBook Pro.
I took the opportunity while they both recharged and/or uploaded to wash the motorcycle suit (after a month of progressively hotter weather I think both of us deserved it). I showered the Rallye 3 suit in the outdoor shower then found somewhere to hang it up.
After I had a simple lunch by the water and continued with updating and uploading Kurt (German - a bit more English) arrived. He had been in contact with Francis and they had arranged to meet and camp together at Ada Camping for a while before heading off together (more or less) around Turkey. Kurt's bike was a seriously loaded-up Kawasaki 750 Zephyr with a faulty starter.......he had been roll/push starting it for the past few days.
We spent the afternoon talking.......them in German and sometimes a little English with me trying to piece together who they were, where they were from, how they met and what their plans were for Turkey. We compared our techniques for planning our routes and trips. It was obvious that with only 6 weeks each both of the Germans had put in a lot of effort to try and be organised for where they would be, on what day and where they would be staying.
Sometimes it gets a little noisy with 'party boats' off Cunda.
In particular, Francis had researched and plotted almost every day in advance with the campgrounds he wanted to stay at marked on the map. He had also done screen prints of maps and directions and saved them in his iPhone. I could help only superficially since this was my first campground I had stayed in although I recommended Olympos (after visiting Moritz, Lawrence, Dominic and Andrea) and advised that camping is available at Goreme (after speaking to Herve).
Kurt was inspirational since he had only started motorcycling about 4 years earlier, got his licence, bought his bike and dreamed and planned to tour Turkey. His overloaded bike was perhaps an indication of his enthusiasm with a small camping table, folding camping chair (not stool) and a spare riding suit! He also had a few spare containers that were empty........(at least my containers have a few things in them with the air). We discussed the sorts of things he, and I, could do to reduce our excess baggage. Kurt had also made connections over Internet forums who he planned to meet up with.
After a while spent talking, updating and uploading it was time for a swim in the Aegean. Dominic (Frenchman) had been swimming everyday and was encouraging me to get in - not that I needed it. At first the water seemed a little cool because the outside had been rather warm all day. Once in it was fabulous at around 20deg.C, crystal clear, with fish coming to investigate who was in their domain. It was wonderful to relax in the warm water of the Aegean, swim a few short laps out to the pontoon and back, and chase the fish.
Kurt (left) and Thomas (right - in the night glasses).
Once again dinner by the water was enjoyable and the two Germans and I stayed up 'communicating' until fairly late.
5th May - Ayvalik and Cunda
Thomas, Kurt and Una (a Turkish on-line motorcycle friend of Kurt's who arrived that morning) we're heading off to Bergama (Pergamon) to see some ruins. I felt as though I had seen enough ruins throughout Turkey and wasn't too keen to join them. Instead I thought I would finish a website update and would see some of Ayvalik and Cunda.
I headed into Ayvalik and parked on the plaza near the water and several restaurants. After a quick walk around decided on a place to sit and have lunch. Since it was the weekend it was very busy with many locals and bus loads of others enjoying the port-side location. I enjoyed a quick lunch, a brief wander around and then I thought I would try some of the other roads on Cunda.
Ayvalik Palm Tree Plaza Parking.
I had noticed a few roads on Google Earth that followed the shore of Cunda to a couple of locations and the owner of Ada Camping had also told me about some sights, such as a restored monastery and some gravel roads worth a look. I headed off in search of what was there to be seen and experienced. After a couple of missed turns I was on the only road heading out further into the island.
I took the option of turning off to the left (no signage - who knows) and continued through the olive groves away from the water's edge an up towards the highest point of island. The road was OK and although I still had full panniers on I was happy with progress. As I rounded the bend and dropped downhill the road quickly went from reasonably stable dirt and gravel to deep and loose gravel before a paved road and gate. I think security thought I would ride straight in when all I wanted to do was make sure I made it through the gravel to somewhere stable.
Cunda - The end of the road - turned back by security at the Monastery gate.
It turns out that the monastery (Agios Dimitris ta Selina) has been restored by people very high up in AKBANK and it is very rare that you can get to go in and see it. I was turned away and headed back to take the road I had departed from earlier.
Again I made it to the end of the road, although this time was at scattered farm buildings and a dog who only gave a brief and half-hearted warning bark before wandering of behind one of the buildings.
Cunda - The end of the other road - someone's farmhouse and sheds.
I had a passed a car earlier and I passed it again (parked off the side of the road) before arriving at the end of the road. The slow riding in the warm weather had meant my bike was getting quite hot so when I arrived at the stopped car on the road I didn't mind the chance to see if I could help and let the engine could down.
The sidewall of the front right tyre had split after hitting a solid and sharp rock on their way back. I explained I was happy to take a breather since both my bike and I were hot and could do with a break. I offered to help and the driver reassured me everything was OK……..Shortly thereafter he realised he didn't have all of the parts and tools for the jack to raise the car.
I suppose we were lucky I hadn't taken off the panniers for the little ride today and I had my tools packed away inside. Between my locking pliers and small shifting spanner 'we' were able to get the car jacked-up and the wheels swapped. Before I got out the battery powered air pump I checked the tyre pressure and all was OK.
Both of the people in the car seemed quite thankful I was happy to assist and more importantly had the tools to get the job sorted out. So we celebrated with balloons and red wine……….!!!???
Cunda - Time to celebrate the wheel replacement.
It was great to bump into them and help them out on the way.
Here is their email to me afterwards:
"Hi Greg;
Cunda is our dream place. We came to Cunda to take friend Bircan's photos with her new red dress by a seaside. Before taking photos we wanted to explore a nice place. We saw you firstly going by near us. when we were going to the end of the island. When we were turning back I hit the tire to a sharp stone on the road and we had tire trouble.
You came on the right time near us because we hadn't some proper tools to change the tire. You helped so much to us. You were really helpful friend. Bircan and I told to each other that "God send you for us." We never forget you.
After trouble Bircan inflated the ballons and tied them your motorcycle's back. It was amazing time. When I opened a bottle of wine I said to you that we were celebrating the tire. You laughed at this words so much:-)) and we all celebrated to changing the tire together with wine and ballons. It was very nice scene that we never fotget. Expecially you ask that the police arrest you or not?? Bircan took your photos when you were fading away on the road.
We have some nice photos that I sent to you in this mail. Please put them all with story of us to your website and blog. If you do that we will be pleasent.
It was very nice to meet you and to know you. Thank you for all your helps. Be happy and have very funs with your motorcycle in your life.
Best regards!
Erdal and Bircan"
Here are a couple of their pictures too:
Bircan blowing up the balloons.
A small celebratory wine for a job well done.
I rode off with the balloons bouncing behind me.
Bircan in her new red dress out by the water.
Bircan in her new red dress under the vines.
The road around Cunda was really good fun. In some spots you are riding a metre or two from the water's edge and sometimes you are at sea level. The road passed through old villages, olive groves and the smallest little waterside tea stop imaginable - it was operating out of a caravan or old van.
Cunda - The dirt and gravel road went right by the water's edge.
It was a good ride and a great chance to keep up with some dirt and gravel road riding with a few km's spent standing on the pegs. A fabulous example of not going too far from your base and still having a great ride.
After making my way back towards Ada Camping it was time to check the end of the bitumen road past the campground. There is a small gated community at the western end of Cunda that looks out over the islands beyond.
It is not far to the islands off Cunda.
Also beyond Ada Camping is a slightly unusual "Club". Ortunc Club seems to be a rather high-end establishment that has a limited capacity for guests in a small area out towards the end of Cunda. I was happy to enjoy a couple of their expensive beers as a change of scenery before heading back to the campground and my tent.
Ortunc Club (Ayvalik) - Ada Camp was just around the corner - the grass is always greener…..
I mentioned Ortunc Club to the campground owners and they mentioned that it is a little exclusive (you are OK if drive the 'right' car etc) and it excludes pets and children so on occasion the campground gets the benefits of Ortunc's strict policies.
Back at Ada Campground I also met a couple (Atte and Marijke) from the Netherlands who are driving their serious vehicle almost everywhere. Atte and Marijke were interested in asking me a couple of questions because they will go via Iran to United Arab Emirates (where I have lived) and also to Australia. If you are interested the truck, the route and many others things a couple taking years to travel around the globe you can check them out here: www.amworldtour.nl
Ada Camp - Great swimming.
After a short distance ride in hot and tiring conditions it was great to have a relaxing swim before dinner and drinks at Ada Camping again. It was another good night with the Ada Camping food being very tasty and simple.
I also heard about the day Thomas and Kurt had seeing the sights of Pergamon. It seems that, like I often also experienced with the motorcycle, they had a little bit of trouble really stopping and being able to explore and enjoy the entire site. They were happy with what they had seen.
On the way back to Ada Camping the day's warmth had gone after sunset and Kurt found that the jacket he had for the sunny days was not adequate if the temperature dropped. We spoke some more about the gear he had and what he might still be needing.
Kurt and I talked some more about his planning and it turned out that after more than 1 year of planning, learning some Turkish language and Turkish names for the parts of his motorcycle he is so glad that he is here now that it is "Full OK". I asked if it was fabulous or great or excellent and he said no because that is too much - so he confirmed that it is "Full OK".
It was a late night by the time we finished.